ISSN:
1573-2703
Keywords:
harbor oscillations
;
nonlinear resonance
;
mild-slope approximation
;
short/long waves interactionas.
Source:
Springer Online Journal Archives 1860-2000
Topics:
Mathematics
,
Technology
Notes:
Abstract The mild-slope approximation has become a popular basis for calculating infinitesimal surface waves on slowly varying depth. It is less restrictive hence more advantageous than the ray and parabolic approximations for describing diffraction and refraction by bathymetry and/or by complex coastlines. Since its computation involves only two horizontal coordinates, the mild-slope equation is also numerically less demanding than the solution of fully three- dimensional equations for a horizontal area with sides much greater than the typical wavelength. By consideration of nonlinear effects of the second order, the mild-slope approximation for long waves over slowly varying depth is derived here, in order to provide a convenient basis for predicting long-period resonance in a large harbor by short-period wind waves.
Type of Medium:
Electronic Resource
URL:
http://dx.doi.org/10.1023/A:1004387531805
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