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  • 1
    Electronic Resource
    Electronic Resource
    The instability of sand ripples under partially standing surface waves (1997)
    [S.l.] : American Institute of Physics (AIP)
    Physics of Fluids 9 (1997), S. 1606-1620 
    Details
    ISSN: 1089-7666
    Source: AIP Digital Archive
    Topics: Physics
    Notes: We extend recent works on oscillatory flows over rigid ripples and the instability of sand ripples under such flows, by considering the instability of sand ripples under partially standing surface waves over a finite water depth. The variation of unstable ripples within a wavelength of the standing waves and inferences on the ripple distribution over a sand bar are examined. The steady circulation due to the combined effects of waves and ripples are also discussed. © 1997 American Institute of Physics.
    Type of Medium: Electronic Resource
    URL: http://dx.doi.org/10.1063/1.869281
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  • 2
    Electronic Resource
    Electronic Resource
    Resonant reflection of surface gravity waves by one-dimensional doubly sinusoidal beds (1996)
    [S.l.] : American Institute of Physics (AIP)
    Physics of Fluids 8 (1996), S. 1525-1530 
    Details
    ISSN: 1089-7666
    Source: AIP Digital Archive
    Topics: Physics
    Notes: The interaction between small-amplitude surface waves and a wavy bed described by two sinusoids is considered. Based on the method of multiple scales, an analytical theory for subharmonic Bragg resonances caused by second-order interactions between the surface wave and the seabed is derived. Comparisons with experiments and with a numerical theory are also discussed. © 1996 American Institute of Physics.
    Type of Medium: Electronic Resource
    URL: http://dx.doi.org/10.1063/1.868928
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  • 3
    Electronic Resource
    Electronic Resource
    Homogenization theory applied to soil vapor extraction in aggregated soils (1996)
    [S.l.] : American Institute of Physics (AIP)
    Physics of Fluids 8 (1996), S. 2298-2306 
    Details
    ISSN: 1089-7666
    Source: AIP Digital Archive
    Topics: Physics
    Notes: The macroscale equations governing the convective diffusion of a volatile organic compound during soil vapor extraction in the vadose zone composed of aggregated soils are derived systematically. Although the macroscale effective equations of flow and chemical transport can be developed by intuitive arguments, a formal derivation is presented by the theory of homogenization in order to prescribe precisely the underlying assumptions and the degree of accuracy, and to prepare grounds for further extensions to three-scaled media. Specifically the basic assumptions are (i) the soil matrix is composed of a nearly periodic array of spherical aggregates, (ii) within an aggregate water is immobile because of capillarity and viscous forces, (iii) the aggregates are much smaller than the macroscale, and (iv) diffusion in the aggregates is much weaker than that in the pore air. Local equilibrium is confirmed as a limiting case of the present theory when the aggregate diffusion time is much shorter than the global advection time. © 1996 American Institute of Physics.
    Type of Medium: Electronic Resource
    URL: http://dx.doi.org/10.1063/1.869017
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  • 4
    Electronic Resource
    Electronic Resource
    Mild-Slope Approximation for Long Waves Generated by Short Waves (1999)
    Springer
    Journal of engineering mathematics 35 (1999), S. 43-57 
    Details
    ISSN: 1573-2703
    Keywords: harbor oscillations ; nonlinear resonance ; mild-slope approximation ; short/long waves interactionas.
    Source: Springer Online Journal Archives 1860-2000
    Topics: Mathematics , Technology
    Notes: Abstract The mild-slope approximation has become a popular basis for calculating infinitesimal surface waves on slowly varying depth. It is less restrictive hence more advantageous than the ray and parabolic approximations for describing diffraction and refraction by bathymetry and/or by complex coastlines. Since its computation involves only two horizontal coordinates, the mild-slope equation is also numerically less demanding than the solution of fully three- dimensional equations for a horizontal area with sides much greater than the typical wavelength. By consideration of nonlinear effects of the second order, the mild-slope approximation for long waves over slowly varying depth is derived here, in order to provide a convenient basis for predicting long-period resonance in a large harbor by short-period wind waves.
    Type of Medium: Electronic Resource
    URL: http://dx.doi.org/10.1023/A:1004387531805
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