Abstract
WHEN a wave encounters an obstacle such as a breakwater, the portion which strikes it is either entirely destroyed or reflected seawards, while the portion which is not so intercepted passes onwards, and spreading laterally under lee of the barrier, suffers a reduction of its height. In the second edition of my book on Harbours, I expressed regret that no attempt had been made, so far as I was aware, to obtain any numerical value of this reduction of height derived either from theory or experiment, although the extent of shelter which is to be gained by the erection of our great national breakwaters depends entirely upon its amount.
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Reduction of the Height of Waves By Lateral Deflection Under Lee of Breakwaters 1 . Nature 16, 423–425 (1877). https://doi.org/10.1038/016423a0
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.1038/016423a0