Bibliothek

Notizen: This essay summarizes my 40 years of research in immunology. As a young physician, I encountered a patient with Waldenstro?m's macroglobulinemia, and this inspired me to study the structure of IgM. I began to ask how antibody responses are regulated. In the late 1960s, the essential role of T cells in antibody production had been reported. In search of molecules mediating T cell helper function, I discovered activities in the culture supernatant of T cells that induced proliferation and differentiation of B cells. This led to my life's work: studying one of those factors, interleukin-6 (IL-6). To my surprise, IL-6 turned out to play additional roles, including myeloma growth factor and hepatocyte-stimulating factor activities. More importantly, it was involved in a number of diseases, such as rheumatoid arthritis and Castleman's disease. I feel exceptionally fortunate that my work not only revealed the framework of cytokine signaling, including identification of the IL-6 receptor, gp130, NF-IL6, STAT3, and SOCS-1, but also led to the development of a new therapy for chronic inflammatory diseases.

Notizen: Most mammalian cells have nuclei that contain DNA, which replicates during cell proliferation. DNA is destroyed by various developmental processes in mammals. It is degraded during programmed cell death that accompanies mammalian development. The nuclei of erythrocytes and eye lens fiber cells are also removed during their differentiation into mature cells. If DNA is not properly degraded in these processes, it can cause various diseases, including tissue atrophy, anemia, cataract, and autoimmune diseases, which indicates that DNA can be a pathogenic molecule. Here, I present how DNA is degraded during programmed cell death, erythroid cell differentiation, and lens cell differentiation. I discuss what might be or will be learned from understanding the molecular mechanisms of DNA degradation that occurs during mammalian development.

Notizen: Normal cellular functioning requires processing of proteins regulating cell cycle, growth, and apoptosis. The ubiquitin-proteasome pathway (UBP) modulates intracellular protein degradation. Specifically, the 26S proteasome is a multienzyme protease that degrades misfolded or redundant proteins; conversely, blockade of the proteasomal degradation pathways results in accumulation of unwanted proteins and cell death. Because cancer cells are more highly proliferative than normal cells, their rate of protein translation and degradation is also higher. This notion led to the development of proteasome inhibitors as therapeutics in cancer. The FDA recently approved the first proteasome inhibitor bortezomib (VelcadeĐ?„), formerly known as PS-341, for the treatment of newly diagnosed and relapsed/refractory multiple myeloma (MM). Ongoing studies are examining other novel proteasome inhibitors, in addition to bortezomib, for the treatment of MM and other cancers.

Notizen: The enormous public health problem posed by malaria has been substantially worsened in recent years by the emergence and worldwide spread of drug-resistant parasites. The utility of two major therapies, chloroquine and the synergistic combination of pyrimethamine/sulfadoxine, is now seriously compromised. Although several genetic mechanisms have been described, the major source of drug resistance appears to be point mutations in protein target genes. Clinically significant resistance to these agents requires the accumulation of multiple mutations, which genetic studies of parasite populations suggest arise focally and sweep through the population. Efforts to circumvent resistance range from the use of combination therapy with existing agents to laboratory studies directed toward discovering novel targets and therapies. The prevention and management of drug resistance are among the most important practical problems of tropical medicine and public health. Leonard J. Bruce-Chwatt, 1972

Notizen: Neutrophils provide the first line of defense of the innate immune system by phagocytosing, killing, and digesting bacteria and fungi. Killing was previously believed to be accomplished by oxygen free radicals and other reactive oxygen species generated by the NADPH oxidase, and by oxidized halides produced by myeloperoxidase. We now know this is incorrect. The oxidase pumps electrons into the phagocytic vacuole, thereby inducing a charge across the membrane that must be compensated. The movement of compensating ions produces conditions in the vacuole conducive to microbial killing and digestion by enzymes released into the vacuole from the cytoplasmic granules.

Notizen: The complement system not only represents an effective innate immune mechanism of host defense to eradicate microbial pathogens, but it is also widely involved in many forms of acute and chronic inflammatory diseases including sepsis, acute lung injury, ischemia-reperfusion injury, and asthma, to give just a few examples. The complement-activated product, C5a, displays powerful biological activities that lead to inflammatory sequelae. C5a is a strong chemoattractant and is involved in the recruitment of inflammatory cells such as neutrophils, eosinophils, monocytes, and T lymphocytes, in activation of phagocytic cells and release of granule-based enzymes and generation of oxidants, all of which may contribute to innate immune functions or tissue damage. Accumulating data suggest that C5a provides a vital bridge between innate and adaptive immune functions, extending the roles of C5a in inflammation. Herein, we review human and animal data describing the cellular and molecular mechanisms of C5a in the development of inflammatory disorders, sepsis, acute lung injury, ischemia-reperfusion injury, and asthma.

Notizen: Type 1 interferon-(ʼ̛, ?‚, ?)-producing cells (IPCs), also known as plasmacytoid dendritic cell precursors (pDCs), represent 0.2%Đ??0.8% of peripheral blood mononuclear cells in both humans and mice. IPCs display plasma cell morphology, selectively express Toll-like receptor (TLR)-7 and TLR9, and are specialized in rapidly secreting massive amounts of type 1 interferon following viral stimulation. IPCs can promote the function of natural killer cells, B cells, T cells, and myeloid DCs through type 1 interferons during an antiviral immune response. At a later stage of viral infection, IPCs differentiate into a unique type of mature dendritic cell, which directly regulates the function of T cells and thus links innate and adaptive immune responses. After more than two decades of effort by researchers, IPCs finally claim their place in the hematopoietic chart as the most important cell type in antiviral innate immunity. Understanding IPC biology holds future promise for developing cures for infectious diseases, cancer, and autoimmune diseases.

Notizen:   In trying to understand resource economies, the article develops the idea of local models. A local model, in contrast to a universal model, is sensitive to the peculiarities of geographical context. Those peculiarities, rather than being reduced to some higher order of logic as in universal models, are kept intact, forming the very basis of understanding. Our approach to local modeling draws specifically on institutional economics. That tradition makes the argument that the economy is shaped by various institutions (not all of which are economic), which are continually changing and which take on different constellations in different places. By setting out a grid of central institutions operating in resource economies, and comparatively using the examples of the forest economies of British Columbia, Canada, North Island, New Zealand, and Tasmania, Australia, the article constructs three local models. Each has the same constituent elements, but how they are related and what eventuates are peculiar to the specific region.

Notizen:   In this paper, a formal model for the relationship between innovation and growth in European Union regions is developed drawing upon the theoretical contribution of the systems of innovation approach. The model combines the analytical approach of the regional growth models with the insights of the systemic approach. The cross-sectional analysis, covering all the Enlarged Europe (EU-25) regions (for which data are available), shows that regional innovative activities (for which a specific measure is developed) play a significant role in determining differential regional growth patterns. Furthermore, the model sheds light on how geographical accessibility and human capital accumulation, by shaping the regional system of innovation, interact (in a statistically significant way) with local innovative activities, thus allowing them to be more (or less) effectively translated into economic growth. The paper shows that an increase in innovative effort is not necessarily likely to produce the same effect in all EU-25 regions. Indeed, the empirical analysis suggests that in order to allow innovative efforts in peripheral regions to be as productive as in core areas, they need to be complemented by huge investments in human capital.

Notizen: Multinational Firms’ Location and the New Economic Geography
Edited by Jean-Louis Mucchielli and Thierry Mayer, Cheltenham: Edward Elgar Publishing. 1704. xii + 238 pp. $100.00 (Cloth). ISBN 1-84376-654-X. 
Reviewed by Nicholas A. Phelps 
School of Geography, University of Southampton

Notizen: The Porter Hypothesis and the Economic Consequences of Environmental Regulation, A Neo-Schumpetarian Approach
Edited by Thomas Roediger-Schluga, Northampton, MA: Edward Elgar Publishing. 1704. 349 pp. $115.00 (Cloth). ISBN 1-84376-644-247. 
Reviewed by Cees Withagen 
Department of Spatial Economics 
Vrije Universiteit Amsterdam

Notizen:   Cross-country studies of education and economic prosperity often reach conflicting results when using growth rates as the measure of economic development. However, growth rates lack persistence over time and may not accurately measure long-term economic success over relatively short economic horizons. To overcome this potential specification problem, we estimate the relationship between key education variables and the capital to physical labor ratio. Using both cross-sectional and panel specifications, we find that both the primary-pupil–teacher ratio and decentralized education finance are associated with a larger capital to physical labor ratio. The relationship between human capital and expenditures, private education, and test scores are less robust.

Notizen: Family, Household and Work
Edited by Klaus F. Zimmermann and Michael Vogler, Berlin: Springer-Verlag. 2003. xiv + 427 pp. $99.00/£53.00 (hardcover). ISBN 3-540-00360-6 
Reviewed by John F. Watkins 
Graduate Center for Gerontology 
University of KentuckyThe Global Internet Economy
Edited by Bruce Kogut, Cambridge MA: The MIT Press. 2004. 520 pp. $24.00 (paper) ISBN 0-262-61204-6 
Reviewed by Sharon C. Cobb 
Department of Economics and Geography 
University of North FloridaGlobalizing L.A.: Trade, Infrastructure and Regional Development
Steven P. Erie, Stanford: Stanford University Press. 2004. 336 pp. ISBN 0-804-74681-8 
Reviewed by John Gulick 
Department of Sociology 
University of Tennessee 
KnoxvilleUrban Sprawl in Western Europe and the United States
Edited by Harry W. Richardson and Chang-Hee Christine Bae, England: Ashgate. 2004. 342 pp. $89.95 ISBN 0-7546-3789-1 
Reviewed by Richard P. Greene 
Department of Geography 
Northern Illinois University

Notizen:   Regional economies are continually undergoing adjustment as their firm populations react to changing tastes, technologies, and the challenges of outside competition. Adjustment typically takes place as the stock of jobs is renewed in each industry. This micro-dynamic process of renewal has a substantial impact on the structure of national and regional economies. The primary objective of this paper is to measure the degree of renewal within the Canadian manufacturing economy as whole and within individual provinces. Using a longitudinal micro-data set—which covers the population of manufacturing plants in Canada from 1973 to 1996—the study shows that the manufacturing sector experienced considerable job renewal. Two-thirds of jobs in 1996 were newly created since 1973. There was considerable variation in provincial renewal rates. A decomposition analysis suggests this variation is not purely an artifact of the types of industries found in provinces, but reflects other characteristics of provincial economies.

Notizen:   Contemporary resource management practice and rural development planning increasingly emphasize the integration of resource extractive industries with non-market-based recreational and amenity values. There is a growing empirical literature which suggests that natural amenities impact regional economies through aggregate measures of economic performance such as population, income, and/or employment growth, and housing development. We maintain that assessing the developmental aspects of amenity-led regional change requires a more thorough focus on alternative measures of economic performance such as income distribution and spatial organization. In the applied research presented here we investigate relationships between amenities and regional economic development indicators. Results suggest mixed and generally insignificant amenity-based associations which highlight the need for appropriate regional economic modeling techniques that account for often dramatic spatial autocorrelation of natural amenity attributes. We conclude that with respect to amenity driven economic growth and development “place in space” matters.

Notizen:   The rapid economic ascent of China and the increasing integration of the world economy in the past two decades have made metropolises in China such as Shanghai and Beijing emerging global cities. Foreign investment is a central force underlying the emergence and transformation of the Chinese metropolises into global cities. This is especially true in Shanghai, which has experienced massive infusion of foreign investment. Varied forms of foreign investment or development zones have been created to promote foreign investment inflows, yet remain under-studied. This paper analyzes structure, performance, and underlying factors of development zones in Shanghai, and discusses the implications for global city-formation; it unfolds the variations among development zones, and illustrates the significant role of the state and local conditions. As the literature on global cities dwells primarily on the experiences of advanced economies, this paper further contributes to a better understanding of the dynamics of emerging global cities in the developing world.

Notizen:   This paper presents an empirical analysis of the effect of impact fees on the value of land used in residential development. A random effects model is estimated to examine the relationship between impact fees and land values using forty-three Texas cities that impose impact fees. Prior research suggests that higher impact fees result in higher lot values, and the results of this research support this suggestion. Results indicate that for each $1,000 increase in impact fees, lot values increase by 1.3 percent. Additionally, these results suggest that developers are able to pass a small amount of the impact fee to the owners of developable land. However, for undeveloped land the results are mixed. For each $1,000 in assessed impact fees, undeveloped land values decrease by 0.042 percent. These results support prior evidence that suggests home buyers may ultimately bear the majority of the cost of impact fees.

Notizen: Books reviewed:James D. G. Dunn and John W. Rogerson, Eerdmans Commentary on the BibleYairah Amit, Reading Biblical Narratives. Literary Criticism and the Hebrew BibleThomas L. Leclerc, Yahweh is Exalted in Justice: Solidarity and Conflict in IsaiahNuria Calduch-Benages, Joan Ferrer, and Jan Liesen, La sabiduría del Escriba/Wisdom of the Scribe: Diplomatic Edition of the Syriac Version of the Book of Ben Sira according to Codex Ambrosianus, with Translations in Spanish and EnglishSidnie White Crawford and Leonard J. Greenspoon, The Book of Esther in Modern ResearchPaolo Sacchi, The History of the Second Temple PeriodMary E. Mills, Biblical Morality. Moral Perspectives in Old Testament NarrativesRichard Swinburne, The Resurrection of God IncarnateH. Benedict Green, Matthew, Poet of the BeatitudesC. K. Barrett, On Paul. Essays on His Life, Work and Influence in the Early ChurchMichael D. Goulder, Paul and the Competing Mission in CorinthByron R. McCane, Roll Back the Stone: Death and Burial in the World of JesusMagnus Zetterholm, The Formation of Christianity in Antioch: A Social-Scientific Approach to the Separation between Judaism and ChristianityDale V. Irvin and Scott W. Sunquist, History of the World Christian Movement, Volume I: Earliest Christianity to 1453Francis Clark, The ‘Gregorian’ Dialogues and the Origins of Benedictine MonasticismMichael Frassetto, The Year 1000: Religious and Social Response to the Turning of the First MillenniumPatrick Nold, Pope John XXII and his Franciscan Cardinal: Bertrand de la Tour and the Apostolic Poverty ControversyTeresa P. Reed, Shadows of Mary: Reading the Virgin Mary in Medieval TextsMichael D. Bailey, Battling Demons: Witchcraft, Heresy, and Reforma in the Late Middle AgesColm Lennon, An Irish Prisoner of Conscience of the Tudor Era: Archbishop Richard Creagh of Armagh, 1523–86Judith S. Graham, Puritan Family Life: The Diary of Samuel SewallCrawford Gribben, The Puritan Millennium. Literature and Theology, 1550-1682M. Feingold, Jesuit Science And The Republic of LettersRobert Bireley, The Jesuits And The Thirty Years War: Kings, Courts, and ConfessorsTorkel Brekke, Makers of Modern Indian Religion in the Late Nineteenth CenturyP. Koslowski, The Concept of God, the Origin of the World, and the Image of the Human in the World ReligionsPeter Koslowski, The Origin and the Overcoming of Evil and Suffering in the World ReligionsJ. H. Laenen, Jewish Mysticism: An IntroductionBarbara Bowe, Biblical Foundations of Spirituality: Touching a Finger to the FlameThomas G. Weinandy and Daniel A. Keating, The Theology of St Cyril of Alexandria. A Critical AppreciationJames D. G. Dunn, Jesus Remembered: Christianity in the Making, Volume 1Daniel W. Hardy, Finding the Church: The Dynamic Truth of AnglicanismS. Mark Heim, The Depth of the Riches: A Trinitarian Theology of Religious EndsJohn Webster, Word and Church. Essays in Christian DogmaticsAlister E. McGrath, A Scientific Theology. Volume 1: NatureJames Alison, On Being LikedMichael J. Langford, A Liberal Theology for the Twenty-First Century: A Passion for ReasonGuy Mansini and James G. Hart, Ethics and Theological Disclosures:The Thought of Robert SokolowskiMark A. Wrathall, Religion After MetaphysicsGerd Van Riel, Pleasure and the Good Life: Plato, Aristotle, and the NeoplatonistsNomy Arpaly, Unprincipled Virtue: An Inquiry into Moral AgencyGernot Böhme, Ethics in Context: The Art of Dealing with Serious QuestionsErica Appelros, God in the Act of Reference: Debating Religious Realism and Non-RealismMark C. Murphy, Natural Law and Practical RationalityRichard Brian Davis, The Metaphysics of Theism and ModalityJ. Brower and K. Guilfoy, The Cambridge Companion to AbelardBrian Davies, Thomas Aquinas: Contemporary Philosophical PerspectivesStephen J. Pope, The Ethics of AquinasKevin White and Romanus Cessario, On The Virtues John CapreolusSteven Shakespeare, Kierkegaard, Language and the Reality of GodSusan M. Felch and Paul J. Contino, Bakhtin and Religion: A Feeling for FaithRuth Coates, Christianity in Bakhtin: God and the Exiled AuthorDavid Michael Levin, The Philosopher's Gaze: Modernity in the Shadows of EnlightenmentCharles Guignon and David R. Hiley, Richard RortyCelia E. Deane-Drummond, Biology and Theology TodayOswaldo de Rivero, The Myth of Development: The Non-Viable Economies of the 21st Century

Notizen: Books reviewed:Gerd Theissen, The New TestamentJohn Dominic Crossan and Jonathan L. Reed, Excavating Jesus: Beneath the Stones, Behind the TextsW. R. G. Loader, Jesus and the Fundamentalism of his DayLamontte M. Luker, Passion, Vitality, and Foment: The Dynamics of Second Temple JudaismV. Koperski, What Are They Saying About Paul and the Law?Craig R. Koester, Hebrews: A New Translation with Introduction and CommentaryNicholas Lash, Believing Three Ways in One GodLuke Timothy Johnson, The Creed: What Christians Believe and Why it MattersDiana Webb, Medieval European PilgrimageMaurice Cowling, Religion and Public Doctrine in Modern EnglandGabriele Boccaccini, Roots of Rabbinic Judaism: An Intellectual HistoryRichard Janko, Aristotle on Comedy: Towards a Reconstruction of Poetics II

Notizen: Books reviewed:Kenneth J. Howell, God's Two Books: Copernican Cosmology and Biblical Interpretation in Early Modern ScienceRichard A. Horsley and Neil Asher Silberman, The Message and the Kingdom: How Jesus and Paul Ignited a Revolution and Transformed the Ancient WorldJ. Painter, 1, 2, and 3 John (Sacra Pagina 18)Sarah Coakley, Re-thinking Gregory of Nyssa (Directions in Modern Theology)Andrew Jotischky, The Carmelites and Antiquity: Mendicants and their Pasts in the Middle AgesTerryl N. Kinder, Cistercian Europe: Architecture of ContemplationM. G. Snape, English Episcopal Acta, 24: Durham 1153–1195Gillian R. Knight, The Correspondence between Peter the Venerable and Bernard of Clairvaux: a Semantic and Structural AnalysisRichard Rex, The LollardsKathleen Kamerick, Popular Piety and Art in the Late Middle Ages: Image Worship and Idolatry in England, 1350–1500Norman Housley, Religious Warfare in Europe, 1400–1536Anthony Levi, Renaissance and Reformation: The Intellectual GenesisAnne T. Thayer, Penitence, Preaching and the Coming of the ReformationMarjo Kaartinen, Religious Life and English Culture in the ReformationAnne Dillon, The Construction of Martyrdom in the English Catholic CommunityCharles Libois SJ, Monumenta Proximi-Orientis. V. Égypte (1591–1699)Charles Libois SJ, Monumenta Proximi-Orientis. VI. Égypte (1700–1773)Michael Davies, Graceful Reading: Theology and Narrative in the Works of John BunyanDavid Womersley, Gibbon and the ‘Watchmen of the Holy City’. The Historian and his Reputation, 1776–1815Anthony C. Thiselton, A Concise Encyclopedia of the Philosophy of ReligionDavid Naugle, Worldview: The History of a ConceptRobert Kane, Free Will (Blackwell Readings in Philosophy)Tamar Szabo Gendler and James Hawthorne, Conceivability and PossibilitySimon Critchley, On Humour (Thinking in Action)Gerard J. Pendrick, Antiphon the Sophist: The FragmentsA. A. Long, Epictetus: A Stoic and Socratic Guide to LifeVictor Nuovo, John Locke: Writings on ReligionTerry Pinkard, German Philosophy 1760–1860: The Legacy of IdealismBrian Shanley, The Thomist TraditionGianni Vattimo, Nietzsche: An IntroductionAmy Laura Hall, Kierkegaard and the Treachery of LovePeter V. Zima, Deconstruction and Critical TheoryL. Gormally, Culture of Life – Culture of DeathMark E. Graham, Joseph Fuchs on Natural Law (Moral Traditions)Norman M. Ford, The Prenatal Person. Ethics from Conception to BirthOnora O'Neill, Autonomy and Trust in BioethicsEllen Frankel Paul, Fred D.Miller Jr. and Jeffrey Paul, Should Differences in Income and Wealth Matter?

Notizen: This article examines the impact of contemporary business practices within the American business system on established patterns of industrial relations (IR) management in European subsidiaries of US multinationals, specifically how established firm-level settlements for the management of IR may or may not combine with host-country effects to constrain such innovations. The empirical material leads us to evaluate subsidiaries of US multinationals as a contingent factor indicating that institutional effects at the level of the national business system are likely to be more embedded than the effects of ownership on employment and IR at firm level.

Notizen: This article brings gender to the centre of concepts used to explore union joining and participation, demonstrating that a gender-sensitive analysis adds to our understanding. Using qualitative data from a study of women in two large male-dominated UK trade unions, the article explores four key influences on women's union joining and participation—family, union, work and feminism. While prior beliefs and values played a role in promoting joining and participation, gendered experiences of unions and the workplace had a more profound influence. Feminism affected the nature of participation in that self-identified feminists were more critical of the masculine character of trade unionism.

Notizen: Using British national survey data, this article assesses the impact of unions on management practices to reduce labour costs, implement high-performance work systems, and make employee welfare provisions. Relative to non-union workplaces, those with unions are found to have practices which are consistent with ‘mutual gains’ outcomes.

Notizen: The process of European integration has reached the limits of European solidarity—both within the member states and between them. Increasingly, Europeans are demonstrating reluctance to accept common rules, to recognise common values, to protect common interests, or to promote common objectives. Instead, Europeans appear to be expressing many different and yet interrelated forms of disaffection. Voter abstention is high, security cooperation is weak, economic confidence is low, and support for either European enlargement or institutional reform is vanishing. To respond to this crisis, European politicians need to manage expectations better, they need to accept responsibility for public policy problems, they need to explain the limits of what Europe can do, and they need to search for new formulas to meet different national challenges with common European institutions.

Notizen: In the aftermath of the rejection of the Treaty establishing a Constitution for Europe in referendums in France and the Netherlands this article analyses the complex messages delivered by the voters and evaluates key elements of the Constitution from the perspective of European Union (EU) employment law. On the basis of this evaluation the author seeks to establish whether there is anything worth salvaging from the wreckage of the Constitution and, if so, to identify the main priorities in the area of EU employment law and the means to make progress by amending the Treaties or otherwise.

Notizen: This article examines whether the regulation of service work through a ‘licence to practice’ can be effective in raising skill levels and improving the working conditions of employees. Research from the fitness industry on the impact of self-regulation of training standards is used to explore some of the difficulties of this type of policy option.

Notizen: Books reviewed: The Employment Relationship: Examining Psychological and Contextual Perspectives 
J. A. M. Coyle-Shapiro, L. M. Shore, S. M. Taylor and L. E. Tetrick (eds) 
Oxford University Press, 2004, 377 pp., £55.00 
Reviewed by Melanie Simms 
University of Kent International and Comparative Employment Relations: Globalisation and the Developed Market Economies 
Greg J. Bamber, Russell D. Lansbury and Nick Wailes (eds) 
Sage Publications, 2004 (4th edn), 472 pp., £75.00 (hardback), £24.99 (paperback) 
Reviewed by Sarah Pass 
Cardiff University Multinational Companies and Global Human Resource Strategies 
William N. Cooke (ed.) 
Quorum, 2003, 433 pp., £48.50 
Reviewed by Trevor Colling 
University of Warwick

Notizen: This article reports on the union recognition dispute that took place at the McDonald's food-processing plant in Moscow. It examines this dispute in the context of McDonald's employment practices worldwide, the interventions made by international and local unions, and Russian government bodies. Despite these interventions it became impossible to either organise the workforce or establish a collective agreement. The case illustrates the difficulties facing both local unions and global union federations when confronted by intransigent multinational companies, especially in low-skilled sectors in transitional economies.

Notizen: The European Employment Strategy includes a new commitment to a substantial reduction in the gender pay gap in European Union (EU) member states, but progress requires a radical shift away from the traditional policy emphasis on the supply-side deficiencies of women compared with men. Mainstream theory argues that gender inequality is reduced once the pay gap is ‘adjusted’ for differences in individual characteristics (education, experience, etc.). But new empirical studies in many EU member states demonstrate that the work environment—the general wage structure, job and workplace characteristics—shapes gender pay inequality. Given the negative gender impact of trend declines in minimum wages, moves towards more decentralisation of wage-setting and public sector restructuring, the article argues for a holistic, gender mainstreaming approach to pay policy.

Notizen: Books reviewed: Industrial Relations in Central and Eastern Europe: Transformation and Integration. A Comparison of the Eight New Member States 
Heribert Kohl and Hans-Wolfgang Platzer (eds) 
ETUI, 2004, 422 pp., ‰27.00 Union Organisation and Activity 
John Kelly and Paul Willman (eds) 
Routledge, 2004, xvi + 187 pp., £65.00 (hardback), £25.00 (paperback) Gender, Diversity and Trade Unions 
Fiona Colgan and Sue Ledwith (eds) 
Routledge, 2002, xv + 320 pp., £70.00

Notizen: During the 1990s, outsourcing work was commonly associated with the weakening of union organisation and the deterioration of pay, working conditions and job security. A variant of outsourcing, termed here as ‘insourcing’, involves a firm purchasing ‘non-core’ functions and services from enterprises located under the same roof. This case study of Fiat outlines the impact of insourcing on traditional arrangements and practices, and analyses the response of Italian local unions. The findings indicate that in the context of ‘bargained compromise’ between trade unions and management in the Italian motor industry insourcing did not have the negative implications for union organisation and employee terms and conditions associated with traditional outsourcing.

Notizen: This paper is concerned with exploring the barriers to cross-border trade union cooperation among graphical workers in Europe. Highlighting the increasing globalisation of graphical multinationals, the paper illustrates that graphical unions cannot restrict their activities to developments within national boundaries. As such it highlights some of the obstacles that unions face in attempting to instigate transnational cooperation strategies. These obstacles include: the role of employers, the prevailing practices of the unions, employee reticence, the role of the law and resource constraints. It concludes by stressing the continuing need to strengthen cross-border trade union networks with the ability to impose effective sanctions against the unbridled growth of multinational power.

Notizen: Books reviewed:John T. Addison and Claus Schnabel (eds). International Handbook of Trade Unions
Reviewed by John KellyWalter Müller-Jentsch and Hansjörg Weitbrecht (eds). The Changing Contours of German Industrial Relations
Reviewed by Steve FrenchYonatan Reshef and Sandra Rastin. Unions in the Time of Revolution. Government Restructuring in Alberta and Ontario
Reviewed by Roy J. Adams

Notizen: A lower national minimum wage for 18- to 21-year-olds and the exclusion of all workers under 18 prompted fears of a distortion in the British labour market and an undermining of training initiatives. Empirical data collected from employers in two low paying sectors, revealing the full utilisation of young workers and under-utilisation of training initiatives, ensure these fears are not justified and that the government's basis for the lower rate cannot be substantiated.

Notizen: The article analyses the Child Support Grant (CSG) in South Africa as a measure of poverty alleviation. Introduced in 1998 amid a great deal of controversy and fanfare, the CSG was a means-tested cash benefit for poor children between the ages of 0 and 6 years, most of whom were located in the poorest of South Africa's nine provinces, i.e. the Eastern Cape, Kwazulu-Natal and Limpopo (formerly known as the Northern Province). South Africa's unique history is discussed to show how the CSG became an important poverty alleviation measure. Debates surrounding the introduction of the CSG are discussed, not least its reliance on effective inter-sectoral collaboration, research and the provision of developmental welfare programmes.

Notizen: This article describes couples attending family counselling in Sweden. The study group is compared with clinical groups and non-clinical groups. Self-rating instruments were com-pleted by 317 women and 312 men to evaluate the following: marital satisfaction (DAS), expressed emotion (QAFM), family climate (FC), psychiatric symptoms (SCL-90) and sense of coherence (SOC). This group had several problems: marital relationships, disrupted family functioning, dyadic interactions characterised by criticism and open arguments, and multiple psychological symptoms. The women were espe-cially discontent in the relationship, and they exhibited higher symptom strain and lower sense of coherence than the men did. Compared with non-clinical populations, this group was severely distressed and was similar to in-patient families in child psychiatric clinics. The low sense of coherence of the individuals in the group under study means that their sense of having a meaningful life and their ability to comprehend and manage problems were severely compromised. Adequate and comprehensive treatment within the framework of social pro-grammes should be made available to these couples and others in a similar situation.

Notizen: We used national register data for nearly 800,000 Swedish-born young people in eight national birth cohorts to examine educational attainments of former child welfare clients. A total of 31,355 former child welfare clients were compared with 744,425 majority population peers. Logistic regression models were used to estimate risks of having only a basic education at time of follow-up, and of chances of having a post-secondary education. Odds ratios for core results were recalculated into relative risks.Compared with majority population peers with low educated mothers, children who experienced interventions before ado-lescence, or had been in long-term stable foster care, had a two- to threefold elevated relative risk of entering adult life with only a compulsory education. Youths who experienced intervention during adolescence had approximately a fourfold risk of having only basic education at the time of follow-up. Majority population peers with low educated mothers were between two and six times more likely to have a post-secondary degree when compared with former child welfare clients.

Notizen: A mental health-care reform was implemented in Sweden in 1995. The objective of this study has been to investigate whether, five years after the reform, there were any changes in the group of persons considered to be severely mentally ill. To estimate the number and needs of severely mentally ill persons, a survey was made in 1995/96 and again in 2000/2001, using the same definition of ‘severely mentally ill’, and the same interview form used on both occasions. Needs were assessed using the Camberwell Assessment of Need. In the 1995/96 survey, 602 individuals were identified as severely mentally ill. In 2000/2001, the number was 828. Those surveyed in 2000/2001 had, on average, fewer unmet needs. The results indicate that one reason for the difference in the size of the groups was that the way the concept of severely mentally ill was interpreted had changed.

Notizen: This article first identifies citizenship as an ambiguous con-cept with changing and contested meanings. Next it discusses the methodological commitment of a study conducted in 2001 exploring the conceptions of citizenship permeating learning disability services. The third section identifies four themes linked to the citizenship of disabled people: work, participa-tion, community and consumption. Lastly, the article looks to locate the citizenship of people with learning disability within the framework of governmentality. The analysis of interview material from the 2001 study suggested that there was no coherent idea of citizenship operating through the services. However, the analysis of governmentality provides a richer picture. The different discourses of citizenship, while produc-ing contradictory positions for individuals with learning disability, do nevertheless provide positions to be had when less than half a century ago no such positions existed. In this sense these discourses are productive.

Notizen: This article concerns how Arab adolescents living in Israel perceive their relationships with their parents by examining six domains of the adolescents’ worldviews: caring and trust, family support, control and supervision, general attitudes towards parents, and parent–child communication, both instru-mental and intimate. The sample consists of 662 twelfth-grade Arab adolescents from seven high schools. Findings show significant differences in various domains of Arab adole-scents’ worldviews according to gender, form of residence and level of religiosity.

Notizen: The article discusses strategies to extend social security cover-age in developing and newly industrialised countries. The three major options are to extend social insurance coverage, to rely on mutuals or micro-insurance or to bring in social assistance in one form or another. Social insurance usually covers small population segments. Insiders are seldom willing to extend coverage to poorer groups, as poorer groups are usually higher-risk groups. Micro-insurance and mutual societies work pri-marily among people with similar risk profiles. Discretionary social assistance targets poorer groups, but is open to patronage and misuse. However, some social assistance designs are less open to misuse than others. Demogrants, i.e. benefits given to people in vulnerable social categories, are easy to administer and difficult to misuse. Whether or not a developing country provides such benefits can be considered an indicator of the willingness of the ruling elite to alleviate hardship among ‘unproductive’ population groups.

Notizen: In Western societies, national and international legislation and agreements are giving increasing support to the principle that children must be regarded as subjects, with the right to be in focus and to express their own views in the assessment process of social work. The empirical data in the present study, collected from more than 700 social workers through open-ended questions, and generated in a cross-national vignette study of child protection cases in Denmark, Germany, Sweden, Britain and Texas, are analysed within a conceptual framework of ‘child visibility’ and ‘child view’. The results reveal a number of systematic patterns within and between the areas under study. The child is visible to different extents but also with varying emphasis across the countries. The possibility for the views of the child to be included in assessment processes differs due to the age of the child and across the countries.

Notizen: The aim of this qualitative study was to explore older persons’ (n = 28, 75–96 years of age) experience of becoming in need of public home help, their experience of participation and of having influence on the needs assessment procedure and the decisions made about public home help. A content analysis revealed a broad overarching category, labelled: experiencing discontinuity in life as a whole – the countdown has begun. In addition, four principal categories emerged from the data: comparing the past with the present and losing parts of oneself and connectedness; worrying about the losses and what they will bring about; struggling against losing abilities to avoid dependency and home help; and struggling with conflicting feelings about being/becoming in need of help, and from whom. That older people can so perceive their life situation needs to be recognised if they are to be empowered to become involved in and exert influence on the assessment process and its outcome as well as on their life situation as a whole.

Notizen: This article draws on two pieces of empirical research undertaken in England with young people in public care. The research examined young people's experiences of a range of advocacy services, and the extent to which the involvement of an advocate facilitated young people's voices being heard in decision-making. The research responded to contemporary concerns about children's participatory rights, citizenship and social inclusion, set in the context of the United Nations Convention on the Rights of the Child. This article examines the strengths and limitations of advocacy for young people in public care and compares the different types of advocacy services that are available to young people and considers the extent to which adult perceptions of childhood and youth frame the services that are offered. It provides a comparison of the outcomes for young people who have had an advocate and those who have not. The concluding discussion argues that young people in public care feel excluded and marginalised from decision-making processes, and that advocacy has a pivotal role to play in placing at centre stage the wishes and feelings of young people.

Notizen: This article details a study to test the hypothesis that immigrant children whose parents have been tortured before coming to Sweden suffer from depressive symptoms, post-traumatic stress symptoms, somatisation and behavioural disorders. Fifteen families where at least one of the parents had experienced torture were compared with fifteen families from a similar ethnic and cultural background where their parents might have experienced violence but not torture. The parents were investigated using interviews, the Karolinska Scales of Personality (KSP) and Harvard/Uppsala Trauma Questionnaire (H/UTQ). The children were assessed using the DICA-interview according to DSM-IV. On the H/UTQ test, traumatised parents scored higher with respect to post-traumatic stress disorder, depression, somatisation, anxiety and psychosocial stress symptoms. On the KSP, they scored higher on nine of the fifteen sub-scales. The fathers in the tortured group scored higher than their wives only on the sub-scale for guilt. According to the DICA-interviews, the children of tortured parents had more symptoms of anxiety, depression, post-traumatic stress, attention deficits and behavioural disorders compared with the comparison group. Social workers, psy-chiatrists, psychologists and teachers need to be aware of a possible transmission of parents’ traumatic experiences to their children and to develop treatment methods for children of torture victims.

Notizen: Books reviewed:Mark Rank, One nation, underprivileged: why American poverty affects us allAugust Osterle, Equity choices and long-term care policies in EuropeChiara Saraceno (ed), Social assistance dynamics in Europe. National and local poverty regimesDi Guransky, Judy Harvey and Rosemary Kennedy, Case management: policy, practice, and professional businessChris Warren-Adamson (ed), Family centres and their international role in social action. Social work as informal education

Notizen: Sweden and The Netherlands are often referred to as the archetypes of prohibition and harm reduction, respectively. Both nations have, however, recently adopted political measures that fit well in the other country's model. But they have also taken steps that reflect traditional thinking. Are we witnessing the initial stages of convergence or are recent developments better interpreted as adjustments? This article addresses these questions by comparing Swedish and Dutch theoretical understandings of ‘the drug problem’. Goals and practices are illuminated in the context of underlying theory, raising the question: Can substantial convergence be achieved without significant prior changes in theoretical perceptions? It is found that the theoretical understandings of the two paradigms do not mix easily, complicating attempts at convergence. Moreover, both countries have invested a great deal of political prestige in their respective models, further exacerbating the problem. A conceivable way to circumvent these difficulties is suggested.

Notizen: Voluntary organisations and volunteer action are new pheno-mena in post-Soviet Russia. Despite growing needs, cultural and socio-economic barriers preclude their massive development. This is a report on a case study of a volunteer programme that succeeded in overcoming these barriers, and in recruiting large numbers of volunteers. Characteristics of the volunteers and organisational conditions that enabled this success were identified and lessons drawn.

Notizen: Treatment processes, what is being done and why it is being done in treatment arrangements, is a field of substance abuse study in which relatively little research has been done. There are several methodological problems. The method used in this study of care providers’ perspectives in Swedish LVM-institutions (institutions for the coercive care of substance abusers) is the focus group. In order to get a comprehensive approach, a strategic selection of four institutions was made, based on the institutions’ therapeutic or pedagogical viewpoint. The analyses reveal that it is impossible to discern an explicit description of what constitutes motivational work at any of the LVM institutions, that the providers at the four LVM institutions gave completely different pictures of coercive care and that they used different tools to accomplish their central task – to motivate the clients. At three of the institutions the clients’ abuse problems were only mentioned in passing in their treatment, and the staff spoke of the clients’ resistance and negative attitudes against the coercion as obstacles they had to negotiate in order to continue the motivation work. The most radical strategy was to work as though the coercion did not exist.

Notizen: The ability to continuously examine the interior hair structure throughout a treatment process is very important in designing effective hair products. Microscopy is commonly used to observe the interior of hair, but this method requires a sliced sample, making continuous observation impossible. Use of X-ray computed tomography (CT) as a non-destructive measurement has been proposed, but this method has a disadvantage in that it is impossible to obtain full-color interior images of the sample. Thus, a non-destructive method for continuous, full-color examination of the interior hair structure has been lacking. In this study a new method is proposed that enables non-destructive and continuous measurement of the interior hair structure with color information. In our method, optical CT is used for reconstruction of the interior hair structure. Our new theories enabled us to solve the crucial problem of the large observational error of traditional optical CT systems caused by internal light scattering and to make its practical application possible. A new optical CT system based on our method was implemented. This system displayed sufficient accuracy when the phantom image was measured, and clear and full-color cross-sectional images were obtained without destruction of the sample when human hair was observed. When the bleaching and dyeing processes were continuously measured, changes in the interior hair with time could be observed. These results clearly indicate that our new method provides a powerful tool for research and product development.

Notizen: Skin acts a major target as well as a principle barrier for topical/transdermal drug delivery. Despite the many advantages of this system, the major obstacle is the low diffusion rate of drugs across the stratum corneum. Several methods have been assessed to increase the permeation rate of drugs temporarily. One simple and convenient approach is application of drugs in formulation with elastic vesicles or skin enhancers. Elastic vesicles are classified with phospholipid (Transfersomes® and ethosomes) and detergent-based types. Elastic vesicles were more efficient at delivering a low and high molecular weight drug to the skin in terms of quantity and depth. Their effectiveness strongly depends on their physicochemical properties: composition, duration and application volume, and entrapment efficiency and application methods. This review focuses on the effect of elastic liposomes for enhancing the drug penetration and defines the action mechanism of penetration into deeper skin.

Notizen: The advantages and disadvantages of oxidative permanent and acid-type semi-permanent hair colors are evident. The former provides a long-lasting ‘permanent’ color, while the latter imparts less damage to the hair. We developed a novel acid-type hair color technology that can allow an acid dye and a metal ion to form a complex inside the hair similar to the oxidative hair color. It is well known that acid dye diffuses into the hair and creates an ionic bond with the positively charged amino acid residues of hair protein. However, the dye can be extracted easily from the hair by daily shampooing due to the weakness of the bond. In order to strengthen this bond and to prevent the extraction of the dye by shampooing, an aluminum chloride ion was chosen as the metal ion component to form the dye–metal complex. A proper composition of penetration enhancers, benzyl alcohol and ethyl alcohol, was required to allow acid dyes to interact with the aluminum chloride ion after each component penetrates deeply into the hair to form a complex inside the hair. To provide color brightness and a color longevity effect to hair color, glycolic acid was also selected due to the observation that a weak acid with a small molecular weight would enhance those effects.

Notizen: Semi-solid multiple W/O/W emulsions with low concentrations (0.8, 1.6 and 2.4% w/w) of lipophilic polymeric primary emulsifier PEG-30-dipolyhydroxystearate (PDHS) have been formulated. Both emulsions, primary and multiple, were prepared with high content of inner phase (Φ1 = Φ2 = 0.8). All the formulations differ only in the lipophilic emulsifier concentration. Evaluating several parameters such as macroscopic and microscopic aspect, droplet size, accelerated stability under centrifugation and flow and oscillatory rheological behaviour, assessed the multiple systems. It is possible to formulate the semi-solid W/O/W multiple emulsions with low concentrations of PDHS as the primary emulsifier. It appeared that the highest long-term stable multiple emulsion with the lowest droplet size, the highest apparent viscosity and highest elastic characteristic, was the sample with the highest concentration (2.4% w/w) of the primary emulsifier.

Notizen: Organic–inorganic ultraviolet (UV) active hybrid materials have been prepared by a sol-gel process from benzophenone derivatives and tetraethylorthosilicate. The silica particles are spherical in shape and have a narrow size distribution which remains unchanged up to organic chromophore concentrations of 0.2 mmol g−1. At higher concentrations the spheres become less regular and fuse. A dependence of the material absorption properties on the particle size (at the same organic chromophore concentration) and on the concentration of surface grafted chromophores was noted. The most effective UV filter materials were found in a combination of silica incorporated chromophores and surface grafted chromophores at an overall low chromophore concentration. A comparison of the photostability of chromophores at standardized UV irradiation revealed an increase in stability for silica incorporated and surface immobilized benzophenone compared to benzophenone in a homogeneous solution.

Notizen: Normal human skin controls the intrusion of microorganisms by the production of peptide antibiotics such as defensins. The aim of our study was to develop a culture model of normal human keratinocytes for optimal β-defensin mRNA detection which allows the screening of molecules able to stimulate hBD2 and hBD3 without inducing pro-inflammatory cytokines. A keratinocyte culture model in 96-well plates, in high calcium medium (1.7 mm) allowed to analyze hBD2 and hBD3 mRNA expression in basal condition and after cell stimulation by products from diverse vegetal extracts. The release of IL-8 and the chemokine MIP-3α was also evaluated in cell supernatants by ELISA. Among the 184 extracts tested, 75 showed a stimulatory effect on β-defensin expression: 40 on hBD2, 26 on hBD3 and nine on both defensins. Fifteen of these substances which also induced the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines were eliminated. Among the other substances, four were selected and were analyzed in a dose-dependent study (n = 4) by real-time quantitative RT-PCR and completed by a measure of MIP-3α, IL-8 and IL-1α levels. These data underline the important necessity of screening result controls by a quantitative method reproduced at least three times. This new method of intensive screening allowed us to exhibit vegetal extracts that were able to stimulate epidermal β-defensin expression without inducing an up-secretion of pro-inflammatory cytokines.

Notizen: The cell biological properties of collagen, gelatin and collagen hydrolysate (〈15 000 Da) were studied using murine keratinocytes. Keratinocyte culture experiments demonstrated that only collagen had significant effects on cell attachment and proliferation, but the results of cells cultured on gelatin and collagen hydrolysate showed the rates of adhesion and proliferation were similar to those of cells cultured on plastic as a control. It is concluded that collagen has better physiological effects than those of gelatin and collagen hydrolysate as skin-care cosmetic materials.

Notizen: The objective of the present work was to evaluate the possible use of Myrosma cannifolia starch L.F. Maranthaceae (‘Guapo’), as a raw material in heterogeneous systems or powdered cosmetic and pharmaceutical products formulation. The starch chemical and physical characteristics, physico-chemical properties, and rheological behaviour, previously studied, were considered. Flowing characteristics, particle size distribution, water absorption capacity at 25°C (ambient temperature), and toxicity were assessed. Results showed that Myrosma starch complies with the USP and British pharmacopoeia, and presented a normal particle distribution. More than 25% of the granules had a diameter 〉23.81 μm and the average size of particles was 〉16.92 μm. When compared with talc, ‘guapo’ starch presented higher values for water absorption capacity and flowing characteristics. Starch showed negative local toxicity, and low acute toxicity in vitro on two human dermis cell types. The amylographic study and the difractograms suggest the possible use of this starch in heterogeneous systems. A facial transparent powder was formulated and some of its properties were determined by sensorial analysis. It was concluded that the M. cannifolia starch presents certain characteristics useful in the formulation of new powdered products.

Notizen: Axillary odor is known since 50 years to be formed upon the action of Corynebacteria on odorless axilla secretions, but the nature of the bacterial enzymes involved in this process remained a mystery. We identified the known axilla odor determinant 3-methyl-2-hexenoic acid in hydrolyzed axilla secretions along with a new, chemically related compound, 3-hydroxy-3-methyl-hexanoic acid. The natural, odorless precursors of both these acids were purified from non-hydrolyzed fresh axilla secretions. The malodorous acids were shown to be covalently linked to a glutamine residue in fresh axilla secretions. Corynebacteria, but not Staphylococci, isolated from the axilla were found to release the acids from these precursors in vitro. A Zn2+ -dependent aminoacylase mediating this cleavage was then purified from Corynebacterium striatum Ax20 and the corresponding gene agaA was cloned and heterologously expressed in Escherichia coli. Based on these biochemical findings, novel approaches in research on axilla malodor control are presented:(a) With a new test method using the isolated Corynebacteria and their enzymatic activity, the direct malodor-controlling activity of existing cosmetic ingredients was evaluated.(b) The structure of the natural malodor precursor was modified by replacing the malodor acid with fragrance molecules. These new fragrance precursors were shown to be cleaved by the same aminoacylase.

Notizen: Ever since the beginning of its involvement in hair research, TRI/Princeton had been asked frequently by the cosmetic industry to organize conferences on hair science on a regular basis. We hesitated because of our desire not to compete with the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, with which we enjoy a healthy professional association. However, in 2003, the SCC agreed that we could arrange a meeting that would not conflict with either their Scientific Seminars in May or their annual event in December. The result was the First Conference on Applied Hair Science, held June 9–10, 2004. We decided to hold it biennially in even-numbered years, not to conflict with the Hair Science Symposium organized by the German Wool Research Institute (DWI), which is held in Europe in odd-numbered years. Ever since the beginning of my involvement in hair research, nearly two decades ago, there has been a feeling that cosmetic research is ‘soft’ on science. This view has been changed radically by the industry, with capital investment in R&D and by attracting highly qualified professionals, as evidenced by excellent papers in the SCC's Journal of Cosmetic Science. We thought this conference would further affirm to the world the high quality of research conducted in the cosmetic industry today. This has been borne out by the quality of the papers presented in the oral and the poster sessions, and also by the large attendance of professionals from different countries of the globe. Being the first conference on applied hair science, and being uncertain as to the number and the subject matter of the presentations, we could not restrict papers to specific areas of research. This made the organization of the papers in these proceedings difficult. I have tried to arrange them as best I could in a simple order. The first half of the proceedings covers physical and surface chemistry, microscopy, theoretical modeling, and fiber science, and the second half covers photodamage, sun protection, and the chemistry of shampoos and conditioners and other haircare products. I hope these proceedings, now and in the future, will be a good indicator of the quality of research conducted in the cosmetics industry. I also hope that this conference will encourage more innovative research, leading to better products. We thank the SCC for its support and its agreement to publish the papers in a supplement to the Journal of Cosmetic Science. We thank our colleagues in the industry for their effort in making this conference a success, a number of cosmetics companies, and Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine for its sponsorship of this conference. We thank Eleanor Lehman and her team for organizing the conference and the members of the TRI staff for their help during the conference. Yash K. Kamath
Conference Chair Research Director
TRI/Princeton

Notizen: A new emollient ester – Crodamol STS (INCI name: PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate) has been developed and characterized. This special non-volatile emollient is safe to use and provides silicone-like feel and multiple cosmetic functionality. It is a liquid with a viscosity about 100 cps at room temperature. It has a high refractive index – 1.4696, which enhances hair shine, contributes to high gloss in lip products, and reduces whitening effect of fatty alcohols and silica in anti-perspirants/deodorants applications. This emollient has high solubility of UV filters, low skin-spreading factor, and good pigment wetting behavior, which are preferable in sunscreen and make-up formulas to enhance the pigment localization and improve SPF value. In this paper, the chemical structure, physical properties, and various cosmetic applications of the emollient will be discussed. Especially, an objective hair shine (luster) test method (color image analysis) has been established and applied to study the enhancement in hair shine by Crodamol STS in hair spray and hair gel formulations. The objective measurements in hair shine showed good agreement with the results obtained from subjective evaluations. The substantivity of Crodamol STS on hair surface, which was delivered from a rinse-off cream, was also determined by a solvent extraction method.

Notizen: Formulating a delivery vehicle to enhance activity can potentially give higher activity or allow for adjustment to a lesser percent of active. A study was conducted in which the anti-dandruff active, Octopirox®, INCI Piroctone Olamine [1-Hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2(1H)-pyridinone], was incorporated into a simple shampoo base at two levels as well as in the same base with an added amphiphilic surfactant blend (Biobase® SMC) at the lower level. A group of 30 male subjects with moderate to severe dandruff were divided into three groups each of which evaluated one of three products for 4 weeks. Methods of evaluation included gravimetric determination of actual dandruff flakes, fluorescent staining of suspect yeast populations, blind evaluation by trained clinical personnel and panelist self assessment. The study demonstrated that the Octopirox® at 0.2% active delivered in the amphiphile blend was superior to the same level in the simple shampoo base and equivalent in activity to a much higher level (0.5%) in the base only. A proposed mechanism postulates the formation of liposome-like association structures that solubilize and entrap the Octopirox® and deposit is substantively to the scalp for enhanced longer lasting activity.

Notizen: Three-dimensional structural analyses of human hair fibers and comparison of the different fibers were tried by using the Ultra-high Voltage Electron Microscope (UHVEM). The analysis condition, sample preparation, and a machine state were adjusted to the suitable condition for tilting observation of from –70° to +70°, at 2° intervals. The tomography of hair fiber was successfully reconstructed from the different angle pictures with IMODE software in a computer. By using UHVEM, the various human hair fibers from Japanese and Caucasians were investigated and discussed about their structures.

Notizen: In a recent prize-winning study, Nagase et al. presented an analysis, using geometrical optics, of the perception of luster of hair based on the different directions of light reflection from the front and internal rear surfaces of the fiber. These two reflections, from cuticle cells inclined to the fiber axis, lead to a specular peak and an associated bright zone, displaced in reflection angle, which is associated with luster perception. This work built upon the experimental observations of Bustard and Smith. Both these papers employed a model of the fiber which may be described as a linear stack of cone frusta, defined by the exposed axial length and angle of inclination to the fiber axis of the cuticle scales. This fiber model is readily amenable to an alternative treatment, in which the model is recognized as a convolution of a cone frustum with a one-dimensional lattice. The scattering properties are then given in reciprocal (scattering) space as the product of the scattering function of a single frustum and that of the one-dimensional lattice. This problem was addressed, in principle, long ago by Bear and Bolduan in work on the scattering of periodically distorted collagen fibrils. The author presents a related theory based on conical shells. It is demonstrated that the scattering from such a model extends over a number of non-equatorial reciprocal lattice planes and is able to reproduce, in a crudely quantitative fashion, several of the features of the experimentally observed scattering. A major benefit of this approach is that it gives a three-dimensional appreciation of light scattering by fibers.

Notizen: Aim of this study was to determine the influence of commercially available antioxidants on sun protection properties of hair care products. To evaluate changes of human hair L*a*b-color measurements, tensile strength measurements and high-pressure dynamic scanning calorimetry (HPDSC) measurements were carried out. To have a measure for the concentration of the activity of the reactive species, causing hair or color damage, chemiluminescence measurements were carried out. Before the test with the antioxidants experiments were carried out to evaluate effects of varied artificial weathering conditions on physical properties of hair. Here high relative humidity (85%) and low radiant flux (600 W m–2) exhibited the biggest changes in natural hair color but the lowest changes in the in tensile strength and HPDSC measurements. All of the tested antioxidants reduced the chemiluminescence level when used in a pre-sun or after-sun formulation. According to the HPDSC measurements the antioxidants showed a slight increase of the peak temperature and therewith a hint towards a protection effect when used in a pre-sun or after-sun product. In contrast thereto some of the antioxidants reduced the tensile strength of sun care products for hair when added. A slight reduction in the lightening of natural hair color could be observed when antioxidants were present in the sun care formulations. The effect of antioxidants in sun care formulations used on dyed hair was strongly dependent on the shade of hair. The addition of some antioxidants yielded significant improvements of the protection properties of the used sun care product in some measurement methods.

Notizen: This is a multifaceted study on the characterization and quantification of damage to the hair fiber surface caused by photochemical and cosmetic chemical oxidative processes. Unique techniques were used, including a microfluorometric method that had been adapted to characterize and quantify the delipidation and acidification of the human hair surface during light exposure and cosmetic chemical grooming processes such as bleaching. During photochemical and chemical oxidation, breakdown of the lipid domains (also called the F-layer) of the outer b-layer occurs on the exposed scale faces and cysteic acid groups are generated on the cuticle cell surface. The newly formed acid functionalities can be tagged with the cationic fluorochrome Rhodamine B, allowing not only quantification of the level of progressive acidification but also localization of the newly formed acid functionalities. On the other hand, the negative charges generated on the hair surface by oxidation can also bind low molecular weight quaternary cationic conditioning compounds such as cetyltrimethylammonium bromide. This process can be considered a relipidation by adsorption. We have shown that the entire process of delipidation/acid formation and subsequent relipidation by adsorption on the scale faces can be quantified by X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy. Since X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy analysis is highly sensitive and able to detect atomic species at the very surface of the hair fibers, receiving signals from an escape depth as shallow as 25 Å, it appeared ideal for the characterization of treatment-induced changes in the hair surface. However, X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy provides an average elemental composition of the hair surface including scale faces and scale edges. The microfluorometric technique, on the other hand, can distinguish progressive delipidation of the scale faces from changes occurring at the broken scale edges. This distinction was shown and characterized in detail by slow speed microfluorometric scanning of the hair surface. Chemical and photochemical oxidative processes at the hair surface result in certain collateral effects. Particularly changes in surface wettability and fiber friction are of significance to the cosmetic chemist because they affect the spreading and wicking of products in hair as well as the managability and the body of hair assemblies. Methods of characterizing these effects are discussed briefly.

Notizen: Nanoemulsions have recently become increasingly important as potential vehicles for the controlled delivery of cosmetics and for the optimized dispersion of active ingredients in particular skin layers. The preparation of conventional nanoemulsions requires mainly high-pressure homogenization, which is unproductive and requires high energy due to its lower efficiency, limiting their practical applications. In order to solve these problems novel nanoemulsions were studied using a model system of pseudo-ternary water/emulsifier/paraffin oil. Nanoemulsions were prepared by stirring a mixture of the tocopherol-containing block co-polymer emulsifier PPG-20 Tocophereth-50, paraffin oil, and distilled water at the Θ-point using weight fractions of the dispersed phase (φ) of 0.31 to 0.82 and an emulsifier content of 1.0 to 9 wt.%. The emulsifying property of PPG-20 Tocophereth-50 in nanoemulsions was compared with that of the conventional emulsifiers Tocophereth-43, a mixture of polysorbate 60 and sesquioleate (3/1), and phospholipids. Also the emulsifying property of PPG-20 Tocophereth-50 in the more hydrophilic oils caprylic/capric triglyceride and octyldodecanol was compared with that in paraffin oil. The stability and morphology of the resulting nanoemulsions were studied by visual inspection, optical microscopy, particle size analysis, and cryo-scanning electron microscopy. In the nanoemulsion systems containing caprylic/capric triglyceride and octyldodecanol, respectively, as an oil phase PPG-20 Tocophereth-50 showed emulsification properties similar to those in paraffin oil. The conventional emulsifiers Tocophereth-43, a mixture of polysorbate 60 and sesquioleate (3/1), and phospholipids did not give nanoemulsions with high-speed stirring. The block co-polymer nonionic emulsifier PPG-20 Tocophereth-50 was found to produce stable nanoemulsions of mean droplet diameters ranging from 204 to 499 nm. The emulsification method of high-speed stirring at the Θ-point using PPG-20 Tocophereth-50 was found to be very effective for the preparation of stable nanoemulsions useful for applications in skincare cosmetics, cosmeceuticals, and drugs.

Notizen: The efficacy of corn sphingoglycolipid containing cerebroside and sterylglycoside as a cosmetic material has been studied in terms of its physicochemical stability and skin care effects. As a result, it was clarified that the optimized corn sphingoglycolipid with a proper ratio of cerebroside and sterylglycoside showed a superb occlusive ability against water evaporation and gave a high moisturizing effect to the skin. Therefore, it was concluded that it could become a promising cosmetic material.

Notizen: Solid–liquid solvent-free phase transfer catalysis (PTC) and acidic catalysis in dry media were applied, with noticeable improvement and simplification over classical procedures in a Green Chemistry context, to the synthesis of some aromatic esters useful as cosmetic ingredients: 3-methylbutyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, well-known ultraviolet B sunscreen filters; 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, UV absorber and cutaneous antilipoperoxidant; propyl 4-hydroxybenzoate and butyl 4-hydroxybenzoate (parabens), antimicrobial agents. The reactions were performed under microwave (MW) activation and conventional heating. The best results for the synthesis of cinnamic, salicylic and 4-(dimethylamino)benzoic esters were achieved by in situ preformed carboxylates alkylation with alkyl bromides using PTC. The 4-hydroxybenzoates were obtained in good yields by classical esterification of the acid with alcohols using a simple heterogeneous mixture of reagents with catalytic amounts of p-toluenesulfonic acid (PTSA). The comparisons of yields and thermal profiles under either MW or conventional heating were studied and reported.

Notizen: The aim of this study was to show the effect of heat exposure, dyeing and shampooing on hair color as measured by diffuse reflectance spectrophotometry. Successive dyeing of virgin hair with six permanent commercial formulations showed that color saturation was obtained after the first dyeing cycle. An unexpectedly high difference in hair color saturation, measured as DE* values, was obtained for virgin hair samples that differed only in cleansing history. After six sequential washings of the dyed hair samples, no difference was observed in color durability, indicating that the adhesion strength is similar to long-lasting and tone-up dyeing formulations. Exposure to a hot plate at 172 °C showed a significant darkening of the virgin hair samples after 2 min. On the other hand, virgin hair samples exposed to the gentler heat of a hand dryer (~60 °C) showed partial disappearance of the hair medulla after 60 min. However, values of total color difference were near the error limit.

Notizen: Difference in skin color is the most prominent features among different races. Skin of each ethnical group responds somewhat differently to the stimuli [1]. This unique feature of the skin is important in the management of skin diseases. Unlike the western worlds, a fair and uniform coloration is desirable by most women in Taiwan. Dyspigmentation, either in the form of hyperpigmentation or hypopigmentation is always more visible in the pigmented races, and results in greater psychosocial impacts among the affected individuals.〈section xml:id="abs1-2"〉〈title type="main"〉Hyperpigmentation disorders in TaiwanThe most common face and neck hyperpigmentation disorders in Taiwanese include melasma, freckles, solar lentigines, seborrheic keratosis, Ota nevus and nevus zygomaticus. Moreover, even common inflammatory or infectious disorders may result in very unsightly postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. Atopic dermatitis, for example, may cause red face syndrome and dirty neck syndrome. Riehl's melanosis is still occasional seen. Amyloidosis and lichen planus also rarely present as facial hyperpigmentation. The hyperpigmentation may be either nevoid or acquired, and even be iatrogenic. For example, a zebra-like hyperpigmentation sometimes occur after intense pulsed light (IPL) therapy. Next to the face, hyperpigmentation of the dorsal hands is most disturbing, both to males and females. Hyperpigmentation of the forearms can be covered up by long-sleeved dressings, but in the summer, this may also be very bothersome. Hyperpigmentation of specific sites including the nipples/areola, axillae, lips, genitalia and especially periorbital areas is sometimes disturbing, and poses therapeutic challenge. A pink nipple/areola is considered as a sign of virginity, and pink genitalia (in men, glans penis only) are also considered a symbol of youth and purity. Truncal dyspigmentation is usually better tolerated, but a change of leisure activity may be needed.Other than melanin, hyperpigmentation may also result from iatrogenic pigment. Cosmetic tattoos of the eyebrows and eyelash lines are performed only by the tattoo artists, and may sometimes require removal. A special type of tattoo in Taiwan is done for political reason, and after the change of political milieu, removal of the tattoo is often inquired. And this is the only type of tattoo for which laser treatment is reimbursed by the medical insurance.Dark face may also result from carotenemia and sallowness. Vegetarian diet is very common in Taiwan, and with the popularity of ‘healthy drinks’ containing carrot, papaya or tomato juice, it is becoming more common to see patients with carotenemia. The precise mechanism of sallowness is unknown, but a combination of decreased vascularity and a change in the quality of dermal collagen and/or elastin has been suggested.〈section xml:id="abs1-3"〉〈title type="main"〉Treatment of hyperpigmentation disordersMany whitening ingredients can be seen in the cosmetics, but there are presently only six officially approved cosmetic whitening ingredients in Taiwan, i.e. kojic acid, arbutin, ascorbyl glucoside, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, camomile and ellagic acid. Cosmetics not containing the above ingredients should not label whitening effects. Hydroquinone is the only whitening ingredient in drug category, and often used in conjunction with retinoic acid and steroid. Up to 4% of hydroquinone can be used. Hydroquinone is a very irritating chemical; however, no cases of exogenous ochronosis have been reported in Taiwan. Adulterated cosmetics containing drugs and even mercury are occasionally found on the market. Self-application of home-made topical whitening recipe is also very popular, and has resulted in an outbreak of contact leukomelanosis caused by the steamed leaves of Piper Betel [2]. A confetti hypopigmented spots within areas of pre-existing hyperpigmentation is very characteristic. Because of the ready availability of most topical whitening preparation by the patients, whitening masks, chemical peeling [3] and instrumental whitening therapy using either iontophoresis or sonophoresis [4] are commonly provided in most private clinics, beauty saloons and hospitals. Electroporation is a recent addition to this category. Lasers and intense pulsed light are also used to treat hyperpigmentation other than melasma. It is important to warn the patients in advance the possibility of prolonged postinflammatory hyperpigmentation and even persistent hypopigmentation after treatment. Besides, systemic treatment is used as well, both in oral and intravenous forms. In the treatment of all types of facial hyperpigmentation, the importance of sunscreen is emphasized. Sunscreens with high SPF and adequate UVA protection are usually recommended. There is no regulation on the labeling of UVA protection and no capping for SPF value in Taiwan.The treatment of pigmentation disorders in pigmented races is always challenging. For nevoid hyperpigmentation, destructive measures like lasers or IPL [5] can usually achieve satisfactory end results but repeated courses may be necessary. Acquired lesions like solar lentigines or freckles can also be treated as such, but recurrence is the rule despite vigorous or pain-taking photoprotection. Medical treatment of hyperpigmentation is usually less than satisfactory and needs maintenance therapy. For lesions like melasma, medical treatment remains the only recommended therapy.Other than cosmetic reason, many Chinese people are convinced that facial pigmentation reflects internal ‘disharmony’, most likely renal or hepatic disorders. ‘White’ traditional Chinese medicinal herbs are usually considered effective to treat the hyperpigmentation.〈section xml:id="abs1-4"〉〈title type="main"〉Hypopigmentation disordersCompared with hyperpigmentation disorders, the available treatment for hypo- and de-pigmentation disorders is relatively few. Idiopathic guttate hypopigmentation is the most common complaint followed by pityriasis alba and postinflammatory hypopigmentation. Reassurance is usually the only recommendation for the above conditions. Vitiligo, however, requires more aggressive early intervention. The diagnosis of vitiligo is often straightforward. However, special variants of vitiligo may pose diagnostic difficulty, such as the inflammatory or small macular types. On the other hands, diseases like imatinib mesylate may cause hypopigmentary conditions indistinguishable. And it is almost impossible to rule out chemical or contact leukoderma. This is the case for hair dye and paint-on tattoo induced depigmentation. The treatment of vitiligo is often prolonged and complete repigmentation may often be a too optimistic goal. It is of paramount importance to look for early lesions by Wood's light when the treatment is only topical. Vitiligo is amenable to topical treatment of steroid, vitamin D, and newer immunomodulators (tacrolimus and pimecrolimus), often in combination with phototherapy. A topical antioxidant gel (Vitix®) is also used with some success in early facial lesions. Topical/systemic PUVA, narrow band UVB, and microphototherapy including X-Trac and Blue Point are also available. Phototherapy is considered the gold standard of vitiligo therapy, but hyperpigmentation and photoaging is inevitable during the treatment and often discourages the patients from receiving the therapy. Systemic steroid is given to generalized vitiliginous patients who desire more aggressive therapy. For vitiligo universalis, depigmentation therapy of the few remaining normal skin often produces more cosmetically appealing result. For segmental lesions, low energy laser or superluminous diode is also effective [6]. Surgical treatment with suction blister graft, punch graft or autologous cultured melanocyte graft is used in segmental or stable generalized vitiligo [7].〈section xml:id="abs1-5"〉〈title type="main"〉ConclusionDespite the availability of many new machines and chemicals used

Notizen: Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic inflammatory skin disease characterized by pruritic and dry skin lesions with elevated serum IgE levels. AD is characterized by predominant infiltration of Th2 type cells secreting cytokines such as interleukin-4 (IL-4) and IL-5. Chemokines are chemotactic cytokines that regulate leukocyte trafficking into the inflamed tissues and are divided into four families: CC, CXC, C and CX3C. Among CC chemokines, thymus and activation regulated chemokine (TARC)/CCL17 and monocyte derived chemokine (MDC)/CCL22 attracts Th2 type T cells. This is produced by dendritic cells, endothelial cells and T cells. We have examined the expression of TARC in lesional skin. We have identified that keratinocytes (KCs) are major sources of TARC when stimulated by IFN-γ and TNF-α. We next examined the serum levels of TARC levels in AD patients [4]. Forty patients with AD, 20 healthy controls and 20 patients of psoriasis were examined. The serum TARC levels with AD patients were significantly higher than healthy controls and psoriasis patients (〈link href="#f1-15"〉Fig. 1). The average levels of the serum TARC of AD was 2338.0 ± 302.8 pg mL–1, whereas that of healthy controls was 215.3 ± 26.8 pg mL–1 and that of psoriasis was 256.3 ± 25.3 pg mL–1. We compared serum TARC levels among three different stages (mild, moderate, and severe) of AD. Serum TARC levels of severe AD patients were significantly higher than those of mild and moderate group. The average levels of TARC in the mild, moderate and severe groups were 540.8 ± 111.6 pg mL–1, 2056.2 ± 290.3 pg mL–1, and 4812 ± 491 pg mL–1, respectively. The patients with old age who suffered from AD for a long period showed severe eruptions and the serum TARC levels of these aged group showed relatively higher CCL17 levels compared with those of young patients (2182.1 ± 312.0 pg mL–1, 1103.3 ± 240.2 pg mL–1). To determine the CCL17 localization in lesional skin, immunohistochemical analysis was performed using biopsy samples. Immunoreactive TARC was detected in the epidermal KC and dermal infiltrating cells in the acute and chronic lesional skin.〈figure xml:id="f1-15"〉1〈mediaResource alt="image" href="urn:x-wiley:01425463:ICS254_15_15:ICS_254_f1-15"/〉Serum TARC levels in patients with atopic dermatitis (AD psoriasis vulgaris and healthy controls.To elucidate the source of TARC producing cells in peripheral blood mononuclear cells (PBMCs) in AD patients, we purifed CD4+ T cell, CD8+ T cell, and monocytes. Both CD4+ and CD8+ T cells expressed TARC mRNA, and the level of TARC mRNA expression was more predominant in CD4+ T cells. Monocyte did not express TARC mRNA. Monocyte derived dendritic cells (MoDCs) were produced from monocytes cultured with both IL-4 and GM-CSF for 5 days. MoDCs expressed CD11c, CD1c, CD13 and HLA-DR antigen. MoDCs expressed TARC mRNA and produced TARC protein in high levels in healthy controls. The level of TARC protein by MoDCs was more prominent in AD patients compared with healthy controls (20146.2 pg/ml vs 15654.7 pg/ml). The levels of TARC by MoDCs in different ages were examined and that was 24,281 pg/ml (10∼20 years old), 21389.7 pg/ml (20∼30 years old) and 18733.3 g/ml (30∼40 years old), respectively. MDC/CCL22 is another chemokine which attracts Th2 type T cells. We also examined the levels of MDC in the culture supernatants of MoDCs in AD patients. These were also higher in AD patients compared to healthy controls. The levels of MDC produced by MoDCs increased according to the aged people of AD patients as follows: 41,698 pg/ml (10∼20 years old), 41,987 pg/ml (20∼30 years old), 50,533 pg/ml (30∼40 years old). These results suggest that MDC, produced by MoDCs in AD patients, showed high levels in the aged people in severe AD, indicating that MDC is a good marker for the sensitive skin in AD.KCs can produce various kinds of cytokines and chemokines such as TARC and MDC. IFN-γ induced TARC and MDC production by KCs, and this is augmented by additional stimulation of TNF-α. We examined that the activity of transcription factors such as NFkB and STAT-1 in KCs in in vitro system. We showed that NFkB and STAT-1 DNA binding activity in KCs significantly increased under the stimulation of IFN-γ and TNF-α by gel shift analysis. The NFkB DNA binding activity was partially blocked by genistein and LY294002, indicating that tyrosine kinase inhibitor and PI3kinase inhibitor can regulate NFkB DNA binding activity in KCs. Interestingly, TARC production by KCs, when stimulated by IFN-γ and TNF-α, was also inhibited by additional genistein and LY294002. These data indicated that TARC production in KCs was regulated by NFkB pathways.CC chemokine receptor-4 (CCR4) is a specific ligand for TARC/CCL17 and MDC/CCL22. We examined CCR4 and CXCR3 expression on peripheral blood memory T cells and found that the percentage of CCR4 expression on memory T cells was significantly higher in AD patients compared with normal controls and psoriasis patients [5]. The positivity of CCR4 expression on CD4+ CD45RO+ T cells in AD patients was 23.4 ± 18.1%, whereas that of healthy controls and patients with psoriasis was 5.3 ± 3.5%, 6.5 ± 5.0%, individually. The positivity of CCR expression on CD8+ CD45RO+ T cells in AD patients was 7.6 ± 5.3%, whereas that of healthy controls and patients with psoriasis was 4.9 ± 1.1%, 2.9 ± 5.2%, individually (AD versus control: P 〈 0.0005).CCR4 expression in the severe group was significantly higher than that seen in the healthy controls (P 〈 0.05). An immunohistochemical study of CCR4 and CXCR3 expression was also performed. In acute and chronic lesions, CCR4 was expressed on more than 70% of CD4+ T cells which had a higher ratio compared with that of psoriasis and healthy control. Taken together, these data indicate CCL17 and CCR4 play an important role in the pathogenesis of AD and may reflect the disease severity of AD.〈section xml:id="abs1-1"〉〈title type="main"〉References1. Vestergaard, C., Yoneyama, H., Murai, M., Nakamura, K., Tamaki, K., Terashima, Y., Imai, T., Yoshie, O., Irimura, T., Mizutani, H. and Matsushima K. Overexpression of Th2-specific chemokines in NC/Nga mice exhibiting atopic dermatitis-like lesions. J. Clin. Invest. 104, 1097–105 (1999).2. Zheng, X., Nakamura, K., Tojo, M., Akiba, H., Oyama, N., Nishibu, A., Kaneko, F., Tsunemi, Y., Kakinuma, T., Saeki, H. and Tamaki, K. Ultraviolet A irradiation inhibits thymus and activation-regulated chemokine (TARC/CCL17) production by a human keratinocyte HaCaT cell line. Eur. J. Dermatol.13, 348–53 (2003).3. Zheng, X., Nakamura, K., Oyama, N., Kaneko, F., Tsunemi, Y., Saeki, H. and Tamaki, K. The mechanism of the effects of UVB irradiation on TARC/CCL17 production by a human keratinocyte HaCaT cell line (submission).4. Kakinuma, T., Nakamura, K., Wakugawa, M., Mitsui, H., Tada, Y., Saeki, H., Torii, H., Asahina, A., Onai, N., Matsushima, K. and Tamaki, K. Thymus and activation-regulated chemokine in atopic dermatitis: serum thymus and activation-regulated chemokine level is closely related with disease activity. J. Allergy Clin. Immunol.107, 535–541 (2001).5. Wakugawa, M., Nakamura, K., Kakinuma, T., Onai, N., Matsushima, K. and Tamaki K. CC chemokine receptor 4 expression on peripheral blood CD4+ T cells related disease activity of atopic dermatitis. J. Invest. Dermatol.117, 188–196 (2001).

Notizen: Low-intensity red laser light therapy has been used to treat various medical problems including wound repair processes and various dermatological diseases. [1–3]. Fibroblasts are important cellular component of wound healing, and it has been reported that red light irradiation stimulated fibroblasts proliferation and promoted procollagen synthesis and release of basic fibroblast growth factor (bFGF) [1–5]. While the evidence of the beneficial effects of low-intensity red laser light irradiation is mounting, the molecular mechanisms of biomodulation of low-intensity laser remain poorly understood. In this study, the effects of red light irradiation on fibroblast cell proliferation were studied and the gene expression profiles of human fibroblasts upon irradiation were examined by using cDNA microarrays. Functional analysis of the differentially expressed genes was carried out in order to understand how low-intensity red light irradiation modulates the behavior of fibroblasts at the molecular level.〈section xml:id="abs1-2"〉〈title type="main"〉Methods and materials〈section xml:id="abs1-3"〉〈title type="main"〉Red light sourceAn instrument equipped with red light-emitting (628 nm) diodes (Healthtech Ltd Co., Shanghai, China) was used. The irradiation distance is 0.75 cm.〈section xml:id="abs1-4"〉〈title type="main"〉Cell culture and proliferation assayNormal human fibroblasts of Hs27 cell line (ATCC, Manassas, VA, USA) were cultured at 37oC in a humidified atmosphere containing 5% CO2, with Dubach's minimal essential medium supplemented with 5% fetal bovine serum, 100 units penicillin, 100 μg streptomycin, and 2 mM glutamine (Gibco BRL, CA, USA). The cells were irradiated with different doses (0, 0.44, 0.88, 2, 4.4, and 8.68 J cm–²) for 3 days and the cell numbers were counted at day 3.〈section xml:id="abs1-5"〉〈title type="main"〉RNA isolationFibroblast cells were cultured in 14 cm tissue culture plates and irradiated three times a day with each irradiation at an energy dose of 0.88 J cm–². The cells were allowed to culture for 8 h after the last irradiation. The cells were collected and total RNA was isolated with TRIZOL reagent (Gibco BRL). The total RNA from untreated cells was used as control.〈section xml:id="abs1-6"〉〈title type="main"〉cDNA microarray hybridizationA home-made cDNA microarray containing 10 k human genes and EST (Human clone set Unigen v.2.0; Incyte Genomics, CA, USA) was used for the study. Total RNA from control or irradiated samples were reverse transcripted to cDNA in the presence of Cy3-dUTP and Cy5-dUTP (Amersham Pharmacia Biotech, NJ, USA). Hybridization was carried out at 65oC overnight. Following washing and drying, the slide was scanned with a microarray scanner (ScanArray 4000; GSI Lumonics, MA, USA). Fluorescence ratios (Cy5 over Cy3) were used to determine the relative level of gene expression. Genes showed a greater than 2-fold induction or repression (Cy5/Cy3 ratios above 2 or below 0.5) were selected for further cluster analysis.〈section xml:id="abs1-7"〉〈title type="main"〉Results and discussion〈section xml:id="abs1-8"〉〈title type="main"〉Effect of red light on human fibroblast proliferationCell proliferation assay was first carried out to study the response of HS 27 fibroblasts to different doses of low-intensity red light irradiation. The cells were irradiated daily with different energy doses of red light-emitting diodes at 628 nm wavelength for 3 days and the changes in cell number were recorded. The response of the HS 27 fibroblasts to the irradiation showed a curve effect and the cells grew faster than the control at energy doses of 0.44, 0.88, and 2 J cm–², with an optimal proliferation effect at 0.88 J cm–² (〈link href="#f1-17"〉Fig. 1). When the energy dose was increased to over 4 J cm–², the cells grew at equal or slightly slower rates than control cells. The growth rate was increased to 25–35% when the cells were cultured in DMEM with 5% FCS.〈figure xml:id="f1-17"〉1〈mediaResource alt="image" href="urn:x-wiley:01425463:ICS254_17_17:ICS_254_f1-17"/〉Expresion profile of Hs17 newborn foreskin fibroblast irradiated by red light using a 10 K human cDNA microarray.〈section xml:id="abs1-9"〉〈title type="main"〉Effects of red light on gene expression profile in human fibroblastsThe gene expression profile of human fibroblasts irradiated with red light was obtained by hybridizing the fluorescently-labeled cDNA from human fibroblasts with and without red light irradiation with a cDNA microarray containing 9982 human genes and EST. A typical microarray image was shown in 〈link href="#f1-17"〉Fig. 1. Among them, 68 genes were up regulated and 43 genes were down regulated. These genes were classified into 10 clusters according to their functions.〈section xml:id="abs1-10"〉〈title type="main"〉Functional clustering of the genes affected by red light〈section xml:id="abs1-11"〉〈title type="main"〉Cluster 1: Genes related to cell proliferationThe first cluster consists of 9 genes related to cell proliferation and most of them were up-regulated. Eight of the genes play stimulatory roles in cell proliferation. The down regulation of cullin 1, an inhibitory regulator of the cell cycle, may also enhance cell growth.〈section xml:id="abs1-12"〉〈title type="main"〉Cluster 2: Antioxidant-related genesThe second cluster includes two genes and both of them were up-regulated.〈section xml:id="abs1-13"〉〈title type="main"〉Cluster 3: Genes related to apoptosis or stress responseThe third cluster consists of five apoptosis or stress related genes. Most of them were down-regulated following red light irradiation. The up-regulation of JAK binding protein may also increase the survival ability of the cells.〈section xml:id="abs1-14"〉〈title type="main"〉Cluster 4: Metabolism-related genesTwenty genes that mediate metabolism are grouped in the fourth cluster and can be further categorized into 4 sub-clusters, including genes related to protein and amino acid metabolism, sugar metabolism, lipid metabolism, and respiratory chain and energy metabolism. In the sugar metabolism sub-cluster, all of the genes were down regulated. In the lipid metabolism subcluster, both apolipoprotein C-III, and lysophospholipase II were up regulated. All three genes in the sub-cluster related to energy metabolism and respiratory chain were up-regulated.〈section xml:id="abs1-15"〉〈title type="main"〉Cluster 5: Genes related to ion channels, transport proteins and membrane potentialThere are four up-regulated genes in this cluster. Up-regulation of the ATP-binding cassette (ABCA1) transporter gene may prevent the cells from over-accumulation of cholesterol and phospholipids. The change in the expression of the other 3 ion channel related genes may be required for cell proliferation.〈section xml:id="abs1-16"〉〈title type="main"〉Cluster 6: Genes related to cytoskeleton, cell motility, extracellular matrix, migration, aggregation, and adhesionThere are 17 genes in this cluster which can be further divided into three sub-clusters. Most genes in the cluster are functional and/or structural constituents of cell proliferation upon mitogenic stimulation.〈section xml:id="abs1-17"〉〈title type="main"〉Cluster 7: Genes related to DNA synthesis and repairAll 3 genes in this cluster are up-regulated.〈section xml:id="abs1-18"〉〈title type="main"〉Cluster 8– 10: Genes related to other functionsThese clusters include genes related to transcriptional factors (cluster 8), immune/inflammation and cytokine (cluster 9), and genes with known and unknown functions (cluster 10). The roles in which these genes play in fibroblasts irradiated by low-intensity red light are not clear.〈section xml:id="abs1-19"〉〈title type="main"〉Molecular mechanisms of the effects of red light irradiation on fibroblastsAmong the 10 gene clusters, seven of them were directly or indirectly involved in cell proliferation. Irradiation of low-intensity red light stimulates cell growth directly through regulation of the expression of cell proliferati

Notizen: The skin provides a physical barrier between the host and the environment, in particular against solar radiations. Ultra-violet (UV) radiation exposure is associated with an increased risk of skin aging and carcinogenesis. The UV light that reaches the surface of the earth is divided into UVA (320–400 nm) and UVB (290–320 nm) components that have distinct biological effects. UVA is the predominant component of solar UV radiation. Although it has been considered to be only weakly carcinogenic, it causes aging and wrinkling of the skin and penetrates more deeply into the skin to reach the dermis. Hence fibroblasts are the main cell targets for UVA radiation. UVA affects cellular DNA integrity by the activation of photosensitizers that consequently generate reactive oxygen species (ROS). Among them superoxide anion (O2°–), singlet oxygen (1O2), hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) and hydroxyl radical (OH°) can react with DNA bases or sugar and induce oxidative DNA damage and strand breaks.The comet assay (known also as the single cell gel electrophoresis assay) is a popular method that allows the microscopic detection of strand breaks and oxidative damage in DNA [1]. It is based on the analysis of migration in alkaline conditions of the DNA of individual cells lysed in an agarose gel spread onto a microscope slide. Denatured DNA comes unwound at the sites of strand breaks and migrates faster than the supercoiled fraction. It gives the DNA supercoiled structure the appearance of a comet. The numbers of strand breaks (SB) and alkali-labile sites (ALS) are evaluated by the measurement of the percentage of DNA that migrates into the tail of the comet (Tail DNA). The specificity of the method can be extended to the detection of oxidated purines (mainly 8-oxodGuo) by the addition of a step in which DNA is digested by a repair enzyme (Fpg: formamido pyrimidine DNA-N-glycosylase) that specifically excises the last oxidative damage [2]. The comet assay is also a convenient method to follow the repair of damaged DNA. Non-repaired lesions and transient strand breaks may be monitored during incubation after application of a stress.We have used this very sensitive and specific method to compare the sensitivity to oxidative stress (H2O2 exposition)of human dermal fibroblasts established from sun-exposed (SE) and sun-protected (SP) female Japanese skin. We evaluated the amount of initial damage and the repair capacities (SSB, ALS, and Fpg sites) of these cells.〈section xml:id="abs1-2"〉〈title type="main"〉Materials and methods〈section xml:id="abs1-3"〉〈title type="main"〉SubjectsVolunteer recruitment and biopsy removal were performed at Laboratoire DermExpert (Paris, France) in accordance with ethical procedures. The group consisted of 10 healthy Japanese women living in France with age ranging from 30 to 45 years (mean: 36 years). Clinical evaluations and biopsies were performed by a dermatologist on each subject.〈section xml:id="abs1-4"〉〈title type="main"〉Cell cultureThe cultures of human dermal fibroblasts were established by outgrowth of 3 mm punches taken from sun-exposed (SE) and sun-protected (SP) parts of the forearm of the 10 volunteers. The cells were cryopreserved at the second passage and subsequently cultured for the experiments before passage 5.〈section xml:id="abs1-5"〉〈title type="main"〉Comet assayThe comet experiments were performed as described in [3] using sub-confluent cells. The cells were submitted to H2O2 exposition (20 mM) for 5 min at 4°C in PBS. They were then re-fed with the reserved culture medium and transferred to the CO2 incubator at 37°C to allow DNA repair. The cells were processed for the comet experiments at different times after the stress over an 8-h period.The viability of the cells was monitored by the MTT test 24 h after the H2O2 treatment. Approximately 85% of cells remained viable.We used the Komet 3.0 software from Kinetic Imaging to analyse the slides. Fifty nuclei were scored per slide and duplicate slides were processed for each experimental point. The amount of damage was evaluated by the Tail DNA (percentage of DNA in the tail of the comet). Four repair curves (Tail DNA as a function of repair time) were obtained for each donor, for SSB + ALS and for Fpg sites in both SE and SP cells.〈section xml:id="abs1-6"〉〈title type="main"〉StatisticsLinear regression curves were established for the correlation between the amount of residual damage and age. Significant differences are noted by * on the graph. anova analyses were conducted to assess the correlation between the % of residual damage and life habits.〈section xml:id="abs1-7"〉〈title type="main"〉ResultsTypical images of comets are shown in 〈link href="#f1-18"〉Fig. 1.〈figure xml:id="f1-18"〉1〈mediaResource alt="image" href="urn:x-wiley:01425463:ICS254_18_18:ICS_254_f1-18"/〉Fluorescent microscope imaging of non-damaged and damaged DNA after the electrophoresis in alkaline medium and ethidium bromide staining.For the 10 subjects, comet assay results revealed that the initial amount of damage (SSB + ALS, Fpg sites) and the damage induction by the oxidative stress were equivalent in cells from SE and SP area.Repair of SSB + ALS was significantly faster in SP cells compared with SE cells at 1 h after stress. Moreover, SP cells totally repaired the damage in 2 h while it took 4 h for the SE cells (〈link href="#f2-18"〉Fig. 2). For repair of Fpg sites, no difference was observed between SP and SE cells. It is important to stress that 8 h after the stress, return to the initial level of damage was not observed, either in the SE cells or in the SP cells.〈figure xml:id="f2-18"〉2〈mediaResource alt="image" href="urn:x-wiley:01425463:ICS254_18_18:ICS_254_f2-18"/〉Repair of SSB and ALS for SE and SP fibroblasts (mean of results obtained for each cell line). Statistically significant difference (*P 〈 0.05) between SE and SP cells.Using the clinical evaluations made by a dermatologist, we looked at the correlations that could be statistically established between the damage repair kinetics and age, skin features and life habits for each donor.Striking features appeared concerning the SP fibroblasts: the repair kinetics of the damage (SSB + ALS and Fpg sites) was strongly inversely correlated to the age of the donors. Hence, the fibroblasts from older donors had the highest levels of damage after 4 h repair (〈link href="#f3-18"〉Fig. 3a and b; r = 0.85 and 0.71 respectively). On the contrary, no correlation existed in SE cells.〈figure xml:id="f3-18"〉3〈mediaResource alt="image" href="urn:x-wiley:01425463:ICS254_18_18:ICS_254_f3-18"/〉(a) Residual (SSB + ALS) as a function of age after 4 h repair, for SP cells. (b) Residual Fpg sites as a function of age after 4 h repair, for SP cells.Repair was slower and residual damage higher for smokers or former smokers (n = 3) than for donors who had never smoked (n = 7). On the contrary, no correlation was established in SE cells.The level of overall sun exposure of the donors influenced the amount of oxidative residual damage (Fpg sites). In SE cells, residual Fpg sites were higher in cells from donors with heavy sun exposure habits. SP cells coming from donors with little sun exposure behaviour (assimilated to never exposed cells) tended to have higher Fpg-sensitive residual sites than SP fibroblasts from heavy exposed donors (assimilated to moderately exposed cells).There was no correlation between DNA repair and heliodermy, phototype, skin tanning index. Correlation with life habits questionnaire showed no influence of food consuming (rice, tea, alcohol, etc.) on DNA repair.〈section xml:id="abs1-8"〉〈title type="main"〉Discussion and conclusionAs expected, the response of the normal dermal fibroblasts, taken from sun-exposed and sun-protected skin of Japanese women, to H2O2 treatment showed inter-individual variations. Fibroblasts from SE and SP area did not display any difference in their sensitivity to the action of H2O2 stress. Although the in vitro subculture could era

Notizen: The scientific view of aging is still rather fragmented, because no sound unifying aging theory yet exists. Most hypotheses are rather limited, in the sense that they describe only the some aspect of the aging phenomenon, summarized in the aspect theory of aging. But it cannot be denied that the majority of hypotheses are based on a deterministic view of aging. This kind of concept presents a single strategy of aging control wholly dependent on the replacement principle, which purports the substitution of all possible tools, such as genes, cells, tissues and organs. But, recently a novel aging concept has been proposed, based on the possible control of aged cells. Therefore, the new concept of aging and a novel approach for the development of a strategic pathway to aging control are introduced, which may hopefully result in functional longevity.The concept that aging is an irreversible, inevitable, universal process of an organism provides the basis of the deterministic view of aging. The underlying view of aging as a determined irresistible fate has conjured many hypothesis on the aging process such as aging clock hypothesis, genetic determinism, telomere hypothesis, wearing hypothesis, disposable soma hypothesis and error catastrophe hypothesis, etc. Although these hypotheses are under debates, the majority of scientists and the public are inclined to accept these ideas, preoccupied by the view that aging is a natural irresistible process leading to death. Based on the deterministic view on aging, it would be natural to adopt the replacement principle as the ultimate strategy for counteracting the aging process.In other words, if the aging process were irreversible, inevitable, irresistible and universal, only the replacement principle provides a solution, that is, just substitute the aged material with new fresh material. Many replacement principles have been developed at various levels from genes to organs. However, when we examine the replacement principle, many gloomy aspects of its approaches can be identified. At the gene level, the fundamental question of existence of gerontogene has not been resolved, though many virtual gerontogenes have been suggested. In terms of the cell therapy approach, stem cell have recently attracted a great deal of attention, but still the problem of the stem cell niche and the mode of regulating stem cell development have not been unveiled. At the tissue or organ level, tissue patches, artificial organs and the transplantation approach have been elaborately pursued. However, it is well known that these methods are restricted because of our limited knowledge on the complex of coordinated development, bionanotechnology and immuno-compatibility, etc. This reality encourages to depend on camouflage transient strategies such as plastic surgery or hormonal supplementation.The complex nature of aging, denying the consensus explanation of aging, has led us to pursue historic views of aging. The core problem in understanding the aging process is the traditional prejudice concerning aging as a one-way phenomenon based on the deterministic view. However, the aging process has now been revealed to be a reactive phenomenon based on adaptive response and designed to maintain the purpose of an organism, its LIFE. Aging-related complicated changes in metabolism, signal transduction, stress response, cytoskeletal modulation, and in genetic control are adaptive and responsive, as opposed to the deterministic programmed systems, presumed to be operating in the aging process. Therefore, it is natural that large differences in the aging process are observed not only at the individual level but also at the interorgan level in the same individuals.In our previous papers, we have reported that increased levels of caveolin are mainly responsible for the hyporesponsiveness of senescent cells through the modulation of receptor-mediated endocytosis. And we have shown that the senescent phenotype of growth factor response loss can be resumed by simply reducing the caveolin status. Moreover, the adjustment of the caveolin status of old cells restored not only their functional efficiencies by adjusting the signal transduction apparatus but also their structural features, probably by modulating focal adhesion complex activities.Therefore, it can be tentatively concluded that the fundamental notion of aging as a process of functional deterioration and morphological alteration are affected by caveolin status. Such data suggest that caveolin plays the role of gatekeeper in the aging process, for if increased, aging results, but if decreased, the senescent phenotype disappears. In addition to caveolins, there seem to be several other tentative gatekeeper molecules, such as amphiphysin and some G proteins.If the existence of a molecular gatekeeper for aging were assumed, it would be natural to suppose that an aging field could be generated inside a cell, as regulated by the gatekeeper. This novel concept would explain the aging phenotype as an adaptive responsive phenomenon toward environmental stress. Since caveolin is one of the candidate gatekeepers, its simple increase or decrease might be responsible for many aspects of the aging phenotype. Therefore, we suggest that the aging phenotype can be explained in terms of a new aging hypothesis, namely the gate theory of aging. The characteristic features of this novel view of aging are its focus upon flexibility rather than irreversibility, manageability rather than inevitability, and individuality rather than generality.The gate theory of aging implies the possibility of adjusting the aging phenotype. Based on this theory, the restoration principle can be proposed as a novel approach to aging control. For example, the effect of nutrition and exercise, which result in changes in cellular cholesterol content and promoter methylation status, would profoundly influence the cellular caveolin status. Therefore, it can be presumed that the aging phenotype can be adjusted to induce restoration by modulating gatekeeper molecules, illustrated by caveolin. There may be many other tools, which can be used to augment the actions of aging-related gatekeepers.As society enters a new era of longevity, never before experienced problems concerning the elderly are generated at the social, economic, environmental, medical and cultural levels. However, most problems are based on the traditional concept of aging; that is the deterministic view on aging as an irreversible, inevitable, inefficient status. But, now it is clear that the aging process can be explained in a totally different way, as an adaptive response to age, which implies the possibility of restoration by adjusting the cellular apparatus. Actually, this new aspect of aging is readily illustrated by the superlongevity of people like centenarians. There are now many centenarians in good shape with a good status, and sound social skills.The active attitude and the positive way of life shown by centenarians present the longlive community with a new concept; functional longevity. The adoption of this approach to life marks revolutionary conversion of the view of aging from simple longevity to functional longevity. The concept of functional longevity incorporates active participation, positive thinking, and responsible behavior. It may be concluded that the concept of functional longevity based on the gate theory of aging may be used to solve the emerging problems associated with aging and aged societies.〈section xml:id="abs1-1"〉〈title type="main"〉References 1. Cho, K.A., Ryu, S.J., Oh, Y.S., Park, J.H., Lee, J.W., Kim, K.T., Jang, I.S. and Park, S.C. Morphological adjustment of senescent cells by modulating caveolin-1 status. J. Biol. Chem. (2004) (epublication ahead of print).2. Cho, K.A., Ryu, S.J., Park, J.S., Jang, I.S., Ahn, J.S., Kim, K.T. and Park, S.C. Senescent phenotype can be reversed by reduction of caveolin status. J. Biol. Chem.278, 27789–27795 (2

Notizen: One of the most important aspects of treatment outcome research is establishing treatment integrity. Integrity of the treatment refers to the degree to which treatment is implemented as intended. Research examining the relationship between treatment integrity and therapeutic change has produced conflicting results. However, assessment, design strategies, and the possible confound of integrity with other variables may explain the inconsistency in findings. This paper elaborates the limitations of existing strategies for evaluating the relationship between treatment integrity and outcome. Recommendations for future research include controlling possible confounding variables, experimentally manipulating treatment integrity, and using novel assessment and evaluation strategies.

Notizen: Various factors have been implicated in the development of body image dissatisfaction. Especially important are three constructs: awareness of a thin ideal, internalization of a thin ideal, and perceived pressures to be thin. Using meta-analysis, we calculated the strength of the relationships between each of these constructs and body image, and we evaluated the differences in magnitude across the average effect sizes. We also tested the moderating effects of age and ethnicity, and we compared the average effect sizes with those from meta-analyses of prospective and experimental studies in order to determine whether the effect sizes differed by study design. The results indicated the following: all three sociocultural factors had statistically significant relationships with body image; internalization and perceived pressures have a significantly stronger relationship to body image than does awareness; the effect sizes from cross-sectional studies were significantly larger than those of both longitudinal and experimental studies; and neither age nor ethnicity was a statistically significant moderator of the relationship between awareness and body image or that between internalization and body image. In this article, we discuss the limitations and implications of the findings on future research, theory, and clinical application.

Notizen: Cafri, Yamamiya, Brannick, and Thompson (this issue) reported results from a meta-analysis of relations between three sociocultural factors and body image dissatisfaction. Comparison of the effect sizes reveals that internalization of a thin ideal and perceived pressures have significantly stronger relations to body image dissatisfaction than does awareness of a thin ideal. The authors tested for and found no evidence of a moderating relationship involving age or ethnicity. The findings raise implications for advancing the study of body image dissatisfaction and eating disorders. In this commentary, I consider some of the challenges of studying sociocultural factors within the contexts of clinical research and practice. Specifically, I consider how cultural influences may arise and describe the utility of ecological frameworks for conceptualizing and assessing the impact of sociocultural factors within a treatment context.

Notizen: The meta-analysis by Cafri, Yamamiya, Brannick, and Thompson (this issue) established that body image disturbances in females are associated with awareness of the thin ideal, internalization of the thin ideal, and perceived pressure to be thin. This commentary discusses several theoretical implications of these findings and suggests directions for future research. For example, the evidence that the cross-sectional relations between these three sociocultural factors and body dissatisfaction are larger than the relations observed in prospective studies suggests that these factors may be reciprocally related to body dissatisfaction; preliminary analyses of prospective data provided support for this assertion. In addition to following up these findings with prospective studies that test for reciprocal effects, it would be particularly useful if future studies provided experimental tests of these relations and more rigorous tests of the validity scales that assess sociocultural factors.

Notizen: I argue that, as a profession, psychology needs to aspire beyond the goal of achieving cultural competence when addressing issues of human diversity. Although laudable, cultural competency as a goal may not set the bar high enough to achieve equity regarding those minority groups traditionally neglected or marginalized. As such, I further argue that asseverative objectives—ones that ask us to aver, affirm, and embrace human diversity—would be more consistent with a truly egalitarian perspective and our own code of ethics. I then describe barriers to achieving such goals that exist as endemic aspects of clinical psychology's worldview of human behavior and psychopathology, as well as inherent characteristics of simply being human. Last, I suggest that in order to reach such asseverative goals, we need to be more active (as compared to simply reading relevant journal articles) in our daily activities when it comes to issues of human diversity.