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  • 1
    Title: Dynamics and modelling of ocean waves
    Author: Komen, Gerbrand J.
    Contributer: Cavaleri, Luigi , Hasselmann, Klaus , Hasselmann, Susanne , Janssen, Peter A. E. M.
    Publisher: Cambridge u. a. :Cambridge University Press,
    Year of publication: 1994
    Pages: 532 S.
    Type of Medium: Book
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  • 2
    Electronic Resource
    Electronic Resource
    Springer
    Foundations of physics 9 (1979), S. 71-122 
    ISSN: 1572-9516
    Source: Springer Online Journal Archives 1860-2000
    Topics: Physics
    Notes: Abstract The problem of simultaneous measurement of incompatible observables in quantum mechanics is studied on the one hand from the viewpoint of an axiomatic treatment of quantum mechanics and on the other hand starting from a theory of measurement. It is argued that it is precisely such a theory of measurement that should provide a meaning to the axiomatically introduced concepts, especially to the concept of observable. Defining an observable as a class of measurement procedures yielding a certain prescribed result for the probability distribution of the set of values of some quantity (to be described by the set of eigenvalues of some Hermitian operator), this notion is extended to joint probability distributions of incompatible observables. It is shown that such an extension is possible on the basis of a theory of measurement, under the proviso that in simultaneously measuring such observables there is a disturbance of the measurement results of the one observable, caused by the presence of the measuring instrument of the other observable. This has as a consequence that the joint probability distribution cannot obey the marginal distribution laws usually imposed. This result is of great importance in exposing quantum mechanics as an axiomatized theory, since overlooking it seems to prohibit an axiomatic description of simultaneous measurement of incompatible observables by quantum mechanics.
    Type of Medium: Electronic Resource
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  • 3
    Electronic Resource
    Electronic Resource
    Springer
    Boundary layer meteorology 32 (1985), S. 85-96 
    ISSN: 1573-1472
    Source: Springer Online Journal Archives 1860-2000
    Topics: Geosciences , Physics
    Notes: Abstract In this paper we study the effect of atmospheric stability on the growth of surface gravity waves. To that end we numerically solved the Taylor-Goldstein equation for wind profiles which deviate from a logarithmic form because stratification affects the turbulent momentum transport. Using Charnock's relation for the roughness height z 0 of the wind profile, it is argued that the growth rate of the wave depends on the dimensionless phase velocity c/u * (where u * is the friction velocity) and a measure of the effect of atmospheric stability, namely the dimensionless Obukhov length gL/u * 2, whereas it only depends weakly on gz t /u * 2 (where z t is the roughness height of the temperature profile). Remarkably for a given value of u * /c, the growth rate is larger for a stable stratification (L 〉 0) than for an unstable one (L 〈 0). We explain why this is the case. If, on the other hand, one considers the growth rate as a function of c/U 10 (where U 10 is the windspeed at 10 m), the situation reverses for c/U 10 〈 1. For practical application in wave prediction models, we propose a new parameterization of the growth rate of the waves which is an improvement of the Snyder et al. (1981) proposal because the effect of stability is taken into account.
    Type of Medium: Electronic Resource
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  • 4
    Electronic Resource
    Electronic Resource
    Springer
    Boundary layer meteorology 38 (1987), S. 29-35 
    ISSN: 1573-1472
    Source: Springer Online Journal Archives 1860-2000
    Topics: Geosciences , Physics
    Notes: Abstract This note is devoted to the problem of the appropriate scaling of parameters relevant for sea waves, such as wave height, peak frequency, duration, and fetch. In the past, the growth of sea waves has often been analysed in terms of the wind velocity at a fixed height, despite the fact that many authors have stressed the importance of scaling with the friction velocity. This problem would be immaterial if the ratio between the friction velocity and the wind speed at a fixed height were a constant. There is, however, ample evidence that this ratio increases with wind speed (Smith and Banke, 1975; Smith, 1980), in agreement with dimensional considerations by Charnock (1955) on the friction height. As a result, the scaling problem is an important one. In this note we conjecture that the correct procedure is to scale wave parameters with friction velocity, and we discuss experimental evidence for the correctness of this conjecture. Comparing two independent datasets (‘JONSWAP’ and ‘KNMI’), we find some evidence supporting our ideas. Further confirmation remains desirable, however, and suggestions are made as to how this might be obtained.
    Type of Medium: Electronic Resource
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