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  • 1
    Electronic Resource
    Electronic Resource
    An in vivo assessment of the biomechanical properties of human skin modifications under the influence of cosmetic products (1985)
    Oxford, UK : Blackwell Publishing Ltd
    International journal of cosmetic science 7 (1985), S. 0 
    Details
    ISSN: 1468-2494
    Source: Blackwell Publishing Journal Backfiles 1879-2005
    Topics: Medicine
    Notes: A new device using a torsional technique has been developed to record the biomechanical properties of the skin.After determination of the optimal experimental conditions, effects of cosmetic products on the stratum corneum biomechanical properties are described.
    Type of Medium: Electronic Resource
    URL: http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-2494.1985.tb00396.x
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  • 2
    Electronic Resource
    Electronic Resource
    A fully automated system to study skin surface patterns (1984)
    Oxford, UK : Blackwell Publishing Ltd
    International journal of cosmetic science 6 (1984), S. 0 
    Details
    ISSN: 1468-2494
    Source: Blackwell Publishing Journal Backfiles 1879-2005
    Topics: Medicine
    Notes: An image analysis method to measure the human skin microrelief has been previously proposed.This new method has been recently automated, using a ‘robot’electronically driven by a Quantimet 900. This ‘robot’consists of a change-over specimen driven by four motors, and allows forty Silflo® replicas to be analysed in 6 hours, each analysis giving the main directions of the furrows, their density and their mean depth.For example, the volar forearm microrelief was studied from the detected shadows created by a 26° angle lighting, in the range of 5 to 100 μm deep furrows. A 38° angle lighting allows such measurements from 50 to 1000μm and is used for studying ‘crow's feet’wrinkles of the face.Results clearly show that deep wrinkles appear as early as 30 years old on the human face. The consequences of actinic and mechanical stresses over the life span are discussed. Un système automatique pour l'étude du relief cutané chez l'homme
    Type of Medium: Electronic Resource
    URL: http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-2494.1984.tb00373.x
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    Paper (German National Licenses)
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  • 3
    Electronic Resource
    Electronic Resource
    Profiling lipids across Caucasian and Afro-American hair transverse cuts, using synchrotron infrared microspectrometry (2001)
    Oxford, UK : Blackwell Science, Ltd
    International journal of cosmetic science 23 (2001), S. 0 
    Details
    ISSN: 1468-2494
    Source: Blackwell Publishing Journal Backfiles 1879-2005
    Topics: Medicine
    Notes: Synchrotron-based infrared microscopic measurements have been performed on various hair transverse sections, sampled either from the heads of Caucasian or Afro-American subjects. Lipid content of various virgin hair transverse sections was established, with an unprecedented resolution. The variations in shape and intensity of the CH2, CH3, amide I and amide II bands, before and after lipid removal by solvent extraction, were profiled, showing clearly that Caucasian hair often contains lipids localized inside the medulla and to a lesser extent inside the cuticle. This statement does not hold for the Afro-American hair analysed. For this, the FT-IR spectra do not change within the hair section and are insensitive to solvent extraction. The importance of the origin of hair on its physical and chemical properties has to be taken into account in future investigations.
    Type of Medium: Electronic Resource
    URL: http://dx.doi.org/10.1046/j.0412-5463.2001.00118.x
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  • 4
    Electronic Resource
    Electronic Resource
    Les methodes d'évaluation quantitative des lipides de surface chez l'homme. Présentation d'une nouvelle procédure (1980)
    Oxford, UK : Blackwell Publishing Ltd
    International journal of cosmetic science 2 (1980), S. 0 
    Details
    ISSN: 1468-2494
    Source: Blackwell Publishing Journal Backfiles 1879-2005
    Topics: Medicine
    Notes: Il existe trois méthodes permettant de mesurer l'excrétion sébacée chez l'homme. Ces méthodes ne sont pas équivalentes sur le plan de la précision et de leur utilisation routinière. Une application de la méthode de Schaefer et Kuhn-Bussius est proposée, permettant une détermination rapide et precise des taux des lipides de surface chez l'homme. Une expérimentation, avec cette méthode, chez trente-deux personnes, permet de préciser le mécanisme du prélèvement ainsi que la définition quantitative des types de peau.〈section xml:id="abs1-2"〉〈title type="main"〉SummaryThree main methods to measure quantitatively surface lipids in man have been used. A comparison of the information they produce and their routine practicabilities are given.Adaptation and standardization of the Schaeffer and Kuhn-Bussius method, using a photoelectric absorptiometer and ground glass plates are described.This procedure, applied to thirty-two adults, demonstrated the quantitative nature of the sampling mechanism. A mathematical approach gives the precise definition of the casual-level. This procedure shows that casual-level values appear to be correlated with skin types.
    Type of Medium: Electronic Resource
    URL: http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-2494.1980.tb00257.x
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  • 5
    Electronic Resource
    Electronic Resource
    Les propriétés vibratoires transversales des fibres de kératine. Influence de l'eau et d'autres agents (1980)
    Oxford, UK : Blackwell Publishing Ltd
    International journal of cosmetic science 2 (1980), S. 0 
    Details
    ISSN: 1468-2494
    Source: Blackwell Publishing Journal Backfiles 1879-2005
    Topics: Medicine
    Notes: Les méthodes vibratoires permettent d'étudier les fibres de kératine dans la zone des très faibles déformations en s'affranchissant des difficultés habituelles des études effectuées à partir du tracé du diagramme force-élongation. Deux nouvelles méthodes mettant en jeu des vibrations transversales sont décrites. Elles permettent d'obtenir le module d'élasticité dynamique, la masse spécifique et l'ellipticité de la fibre. Ces deux méthodes sont utilisées pour caractériser le comportement des fibres de kératine naturelles ou modifiées chimiquement. Ainsi, l'influence des liaisons ioniques sur la teneur en eau des fibres et don sur leurs propriétés élastiques est discutée. L'effet d'autres agents utilisés dans les traitements cosmétiques (décoloration, réduction, depôt de polymères) sont interprétés en fonction de la connaissance que l'on a de la structure de la kératine et de son interaction avec l'eau. The transverse vibrational properties of keratin fibres in the presence of water and other materials 〈section xml:id="abs1-2"〉〈title type="main"〉SummaryVibrating methods allow studies about the elastic properties of keratin fibres in the weak deformation range preventing interferences due to the usual problems encountered in the strain-strength studies. Two new transversal vibrating methods are presented. They afford the measurement of the dynamical elastic modulus, the specific weight and the ellipticity of the fibres.These two methods are used in order to characterise natural or chemically modified fibres. The influence of ionic bonds on water content of the fibres and therefore on their visco-elastic properties has been investigated. Effect of agents used for cosmetic treatments (hair bleaching, permanent waving, polymer coating) are interpreted in terms of the keratin structure and of its interaction with water molecules.
    Type of Medium: Electronic Resource
    URL: http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-2494.1980.tb00249.x
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  • 6
    Electronic Resource
    Electronic Resource
    Influence des differents constituents de la couche cornee sur la mesure de son élasticité (1982)
    Oxford, UK : Blackwell Publishing Ltd
    International journal of cosmetic science 4 (1982), S. 0 
    Details
    ISSN: 1468-2494
    Source: Blackwell Publishing Journal Backfiles 1879-2005
    Topics: Medicine
    Notes: Un nouvel appareillage, permettant une détermination simultanée des modules d'élasticité statique de dynamique du Stratum Corneum, a été mis au point.L'étude systématique de ces paramètres mécaniques pour différents échantillons de SC humain permet de mettre en évidence les avantages de la mesure du module d'élasticité dynamique pour quantifier l'effet des traitements.L'effet de certains traitements ‘kératolytiques’sur l'élasticité du SC peut ainsi être discuté. Ces résultats ainsi que ceux obtenus par microscopie électronique sur l'effet de ces produits, permettent de discuter les relations existant entre la structure et les paramètres élastiques. The effect of various constituants of the corneous layer on measurements of its elasticity 〈section xml:id="abs1-2"〉〈title type="main"〉SummaryA new instrument has been developed which enables simultaneous determinations of the static and dynamic moduli of elasticity of the stratum corneum to be made.A systematic study of these mechanical parameters for various samples of human SC demonstrates the advantages of the dynamic measurement of the modulus of elasticity in evaluating the effect of treatments.The effect of treatment of thioglycollic acid (TA) and salicylic acid (SA) on the stratum corneum was studied by means of this technique and electron microscopy.TA markedly reduces the elastic modulus. Electron microscopy shows that horny cell structure is fully disorganized. On the contrary, SA treatment increases the elastic modulus without any noticeable changes on corneocytes. This last study confirms the preferential effect of SA on the intercorneocyte spaces.
    Type of Medium: Electronic Resource
    URL: http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-2494.1982.tb00321.x
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  • 7
    Electronic Resource
    Electronic Resource
    Do cosmetics enhance female Caucasian facial attractiveness? (2003)
    Oxford, UK : Blackwell Science, Ltd
    International journal of cosmetic science 25 (2003), S. 0 
    Details
    ISSN: 1468-2494
    Source: Blackwell Publishing Journal Backfiles 1879-2005
    Topics: Medicine
    Notes: This study sought to investigate whether cosmetics do improve female facial attractiveness, and to determine whether the contribution of different cosmetic products are separable, or whether they function synergistically to enhance female beauty. Ten volunteers were made up by a beautician under five cosmetics conditions: (i) no make-up; (ii) foundation only; (iii) eye make-up only; (iv) lip make-up only; and (v) full facial make-up. Male and female participants were asked to view the 10 sets of five photographs, and rank each set from most attractive to least attractive. As predicted, faces with full make-up were judged more attractive than the same faces with no make-up. Sex differences within the results were also apparent. Women judged eye make-up as contributing most to the attractiveness. Men rated eye make-up and foundation as having a significant impact on the attractiveness of a full facial makeover. Surprisingly, lipstick did not appear to contribute to attractiveness independently.
    Type of Medium: Electronic Resource
    URL: http://dx.doi.org/10.1046/j.1467-2494.2003.00188.x
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  • 8
    Electronic Resource
    Electronic Resource
    A comparative study of refatting kinetics on the scalp and forehead (1982)
    Oxford, UK : Blackwell Publishing Ltd
    British journal of dermatology 106 (1982), S. 0 
    Details
    ISSN: 1365-2133
    Source: Blackwell Publishing Journal Backfiles 1879-2005
    Topics: Medicine
    Notes: A modified photometric technique has shown considerable differences between the refatting kinetics of the scalp and forehead. The refatting on the forehead occurs rapidly, probably due to the large follicular reservoir. The follicular reservoir of the scalp, which bears a large terminal hair, is much smaller and so the refatting time is longer. Thus, sebum excretion and sebum production rates probably correlate better on the scalp than on the forehead, and we suggest that the scalp may be a better site than the forehead for investigating sebaceous gland physiology.
    Type of Medium: Electronic Resource
    URL: http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-2133.1982.tb14703.x
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  • 9
    Electronic Resource
    Electronic Resource
    Objective determination of the bioavailability of dermocorticoids-influence of the formulation (1984)
    Oxford, UK : Blackwell Publishing Ltd
    British journal of dermatology 111 (1984), S. 0 
    Details
    ISSN: 1365-2133
    Source: Blackwell Publishing Journal Backfiles 1879-2005
    Topics: Medicine
    Notes: In order to quantify the intensity of skin blanching and thus predict the bioavailability of topical corticoids, a physical device allowing the measurement of light reflected from skin without any contact between the probe and the skin was used (Leveque et al., 1984). Three series of experiments were carried out: firstly, to assess the vasoconstrictor potency of four corticoids; secondly, to show the influence of the vehicle on the bioavailability of the same drug under various galenic forms, such as fatty ointments or water in oil (W/O) and oil in water (O/W) creams; thirdly, to determine the reservoir effects, if any, of some of these formulations.The results confirm previous findings about the potency of hydrocortisone acetate, triamcinolone 17-acetonide, betamethasone 17-valeratc, diflucortolone valerate and clobetasol 17-propionate.
    Type of Medium: Electronic Resource
    URL: http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-2133.1984.tb15596.x
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  • 10
    Electronic Resource
    Electronic Resource
    In Vivo Studies of the Evolution of Physical Properties of the Human Skin with Age (1984)
    Oxford, UK : Blackwell Publishing Ltd
    International journal of dermatology 23 (1984), S. 0 
    Details
    ISSN: 1365-4632
    Source: Blackwell Publishing Journal Backfiles 1879-2005
    Topics: Medicine
    Type of Medium: Electronic Resource
    URL: http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-4362.1984.tb04061.x
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