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  • 1
    ISSN: 1468-2494
    Source: Blackwell Publishing Journal Backfiles 1879-2005
    Topics: Medicine
    Notes: Standardization of the method to determine sun protection factors (SPF) is fundamental to uniform labelling of SPF values on sun products. The COLIPA Task Force ‘Sun Protection Measurement’(SPM), including representatives of major European sun-product manufacturers and contract testing laboratories, was established in 1990 to define methods for sun products testing. The process involved in developing the COLlPA SPF Test Method started with a critical appraisal of previously existing methods, and identification of areas for improvement. Experiments were performed by the participating laboratories to establish the new recommended test protocol which was then confirmed in two multicentred ring tests. Improvements to test methodology included the number and selection of volunteers and skin types, the application of the product, the definition of W output from solar simulators, and the method for assessing erythemal response (MED) including an option to use colorimetry to define objectively the ‘erythemal threshold’ of skin and to predetermine MED prior to exposure. Four cosmetic formulations and neutral density physical filters (SPF from 4 to 20) were tested in two ring tests. Results showed that variations in SPF of the cosmetic products were, on average, directly proportional to SPF value. An excellent correlation was found between visual and colorimetric SPF assessments (r = 0.99). An acceptable range of values for low and high SPF standard products was also established. The COLIPA SPF test method is now fully defined and supported by experimental data. Its use will harmonize SPF testing throughout Europe and help in the quest for global harmonization in testing sun products.
    Type of Medium: Electronic Resource
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  • 2
    Electronic Resource
    Electronic Resource
    Oxford, UK : Blackwell Publishing Ltd
    International journal of cosmetic science 13 (1991), S. 0 
    ISSN: 1468-2494
    Source: Blackwell Publishing Journal Backfiles 1879-2005
    Topics: Medicine
    Notes: The evaluation of sun-product efficacy, with laboratory solar simulators or in actual sun, implicates clinical and subjective assessment of the various skin responses in terms of wavelengths constitutive of solar light. These photobiological responses vary according to skin types and particularly to basic skin melanic content, i.e. with skin colour. Now, the instrumental measurement of live skin colour has become easier to perform, fast and reliable. Based on the standard CIE-L*a*b* colour system and correlated with the human eye, this technique was used to define the skin colour domain of the caucasian population, to propose a skin colour classification, and then to objectively follow, over a three week period, the dynamics and kinetics of tanning induced by UVB, UVA and UVB ± A multi-exposures on the three skin categories. The specific directions in the three-dimensional L*a*b* colour space of the tanning components, i.e. erythema, immediate pigmentation and constitutional melanization, as well as the resulting tanning pathways, were analysed and defined in the three-dimensional colour space, using a vectorial method. The UVB, UVA and UVB ± A tannings were differentiated by their intensity, their hue and especially their lasting capacity: UVA tanning clearly appeared more lasting than UVB. In addition, the UVA*UVB interaction on tanning intensity was not found to be significant. With the skin colour classification and the tanning models, this comprehensive study supplies a basic tool for the colorimetric interpretation of the skin phenomena involved, provided that this interpretation is always considered in the three dimensions of the colour space. It also suggests some useful practical applications for sun product formulation and evaluation.
    Type of Medium: Electronic Resource
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  • 3
    Electronic Resource
    Electronic Resource
    Oxford, UK : Blackwell Publishing Ltd
    British journal of dermatology 132 (1995), S. 0 
    ISSN: 1365-2133
    Source: Blackwell Publishing Journal Backfiles 1879-2005
    Topics: Medicine
    Notes: The phototrichogram is a non-invasive technique by which, on the same precise area of the scalp, each individual hair may be identified, and its current growth phase established. This technique was used to study the duration of hair cycles in 10 male subjects, balding and non-balding, by observations at monthly intervals over a period of 8-14 years. The accumulated data served to characterize the effects of ageing in these subjects: a reduction in the duration of hair growth and in the diameter of hair shafts, most evident in the thickest hairs, and a prolongation of the interval separating the loss of a hair in telogen and the emergence of a replacement hair in anagen. These various aspects of ageing of scalp hair contribute to its progressive overall impoverishment. They resemble those observed in the course of male-pattern balding, although their development is less marked.
    Type of Medium: Electronic Resource
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  • 4
    ISSN: 1365-2133
    Source: Blackwell Publishing Journal Backfiles 1879-2005
    Topics: Medicine
    Notes: Background Ultraviolet (UV) B-induced effects on the skin immune system have been extensively investigated, but little is known regarding the immunological changes induced by UVA exposure of human skin. Recent data assessing the protection afforded by sunscreens against photoimmunosuppression stress the need for broad-spectrum sunscreens with an adequate UVA protection. Objectives The purpose of this study was first to determine the changes observed in epidermal Langerhans cells (ELC) density and epidermal antigen-presenting cell (APC) activity after exposure of human skin to UVAI (340–400 nm) radiation, and secondly to assess the immune protection afforded in vivo by a sunscreen formulation containing a long wavelength UVA filter with a low UVA protection factor (UVA-PF = 3). Methods Epidermal cell (EC) suspensions were prepared from skin biopsies 3 days after exposure to a single dose of UVAI (either 30 or 60 J cm−2). Results Flow-cytometric analysis of EC suspensions revealed that exposure to 60 J cm−2 UVAI resulted in a decreased number of ELC without infiltration of CD36+ DR+ CD1a– antigen-presenting macrophages into the epidermis, and a significant reduction of HLA-DR expression on viable ELC. In vivo exposure to both 30 and 60 J cm−2 resulted in a decreased allogeneic CD4+ T-cell proliferation induced by UVAI-irradiated ECs. The sunscreen application partially prevented (57 ± 9%) the decrease in epidermal allogeneic APC activity induced by 60 J cm−2 UVAI. Conclusions In vivo UVAI exposure of human skin results in a decreased number of ELC and in a downregulation of epidermal APC activity. This last effect is partially prevented by prior application of a sunscreen with a low UVAI-PF value. These results indicate that increasing the absorption of UV filters for long UVA wavelengths may lead to an improved immune protection.
    Type of Medium: Electronic Resource
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