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Notes: There has been an increasing focus on the performance of workers through appraisal, performance-related pay and performance management and this emphasis on measuring performance has extended to the public sector—more specifically, to the teaching profession. This paper uses research commissioned by the DfES to investigate the operation of capability procedures introduced to deal with the perceived problem of incompetent teachers. It revealed that the procedures suffered from a number of defects both in modus operandi and style and there was little evidence that their application resulted in either improved performance or dismissal when satisfactory performance was not achieved.

Notes: Unlike studies of women, studies of men in paid employment have tended to focus on them purely as workers, trade unionists and breadwinners, rather than on their roles beyond the workplace. This paper addresses this omission by exploring the relationship between paid work and aspects of family life amongst 69 male process workers from three manufacturing companies. It offers qualitative evidence to demonstrate that understanding men's wider domestic/familial roles and responsibilities is integral to analyses of their workplace behaviour. The conclusion from this study is that the boundary between home and work is selectively-permeable, and the workers took aspects of their domestic life into the workplace whilst seeking to prevent their paid work from intruding on family and domestic life.

Notes: This article examines the workings of co-determination in the German finance industry through two case studies examining the introduction of working time accounts. It is shown that the accounts posed important new challenges for employees and works councillors that represented variants of long-existing negotiations around working time issues. The problems were clear and similar in both cases, giving rise to complaints to councillors, though not to managers. Councillors’ responses differed in the two companies. In one, they successfully re-negotiated the agreement under which the accounts had been introduced. In the other, they did not succeed in doing so. The differences between the two representative bodies are analysed to reflect on a theory of employee representative influence.

Notes: Books reviewed:Jill C. Humphrey. Towards a Politics of the RainbowBrendan Burchell, David Lapido and Frank Wilkinson (eds). Job Insecurity and Work IntensificationPeter Ackers and Adrian Wilkinson (eds). Understanding Work and Employment: Industrial Relations in Transition

Notes: The aim of this paper is to review the role that representative worker participation can play in contributing to better health and safety performance in small enterprises. The relevance of representative participation to health and safety in small enterprises is addressed and the challenges that the sector poses are discussed. Using a number of examples, including legislative approaches, trade union initiatives and joint trade union employer schemes in various countries, the paper explores some of the ways in which such challenges have been tackled.

Notes: The impact of child rearing upon male and female participation rates and earnings within 130 dual career households is investigated. Female participation rates and earnings in households with children are significantly lower than both comparable males and females without children. No significant gender differences exist in pay in childless households.

Notes: Most publications on German industrial relations tend to focus on works councils but miss trade union delegates and senior delegates. Seeking to address this lack of research, a case study of a large manufacturing plant is used to examine the role of union delegates and senior delegates and their relationship to works councils. The case study seeks to show why works councils are inextricably linked to the union movement, even though both are structurally separated. Research findings support the notion that both are in a mutually supportive relationship. Furthermore, the evidence also suggests that trade union shopfloor representation is of crucial importance for works councils, industrial democracy and trade unions in German industrial relations.

Notes: This paper examines the mutual expectations of employment agencies, the temporary workers who are placed by them and the client or host companies with whom they are placed. It considers the ambiguities and complexities inherent in the psychological contracts of agency temps, pointing to positive dimensions of the agency relationship with temps coupled with a tough transactional regime. In periods of uncertainty agency temping provided individuals with an illusion of freedom and control.

Notes: This article assesses the impact of the profound changes that have taken place in the higher education sector on academic staff in the UK. The perceptions of staff about their work and employment are examined through evidence provided by a recent large-scale survey. The discussion draws on a labour process perspective. The article finds that the views of staff are far from homogeneous and not universally pessimistic. However, in general the morale and satisfaction of many teaching staff have been eroded by work intensification and that of research staff by the considerable insecurity created by casualised employment. Nonetheless resistance and resilience continues despite the commodifying pressures, and ‘traditional’ values remain strong.

Notes: This article focuses on the struggle for a social Europe by examining social partnership developments in two western countries, Germany and Britain, and two eastern countries, Bulgaria and Poland. The resurgence of social partnership in the west, even in the weakest case (Britain), is paradoxically driven in part by neoliberal EU economic policies. In the east, post-communist tripartism helped preserve social peace with the coming of markets, while both international lending agencies and subsequent EU accession processes pushed domestic actors towards social dialogue. The coming or deepening of markets has therefore surprisingly promoted or reinforced relations of social partnership throughout Europe.

Notes: Book reviewed Dock Workers: International Explorations in Comparative Labour History 
 Sam Davis, Colin J. Davis, David de Vries, Lex Heerma van Voss, Lidewij Hesselink and Klaus Weinhauer (eds) 
 Ashgate, 2000, 863 pp., £75 (hardback, 2 volumes) Labored Relations: Law, Politics and the NLRB—A Memoir 
 William B. Gould IV 
 MIT Press, 2000, 474 pp., £27.50 Trade Unions and Global Governance. The Debate on a Social Clause 
 Gerda van Roozendal 
 Continuum, 2002, 260 pp., £75.00 (hardback), £25.00 (paperback) Organized Labour in the 21st Century 
 A.V. Jose (ed.) 
 International Institute for Labour Studies, 2002, xii + 406 pp., 120

Notes: We test the hypothesis that the Raven's Advanced Progressive Matrices has the same construct validity in African university students as it does in non-African students by examining data from 306 highly select 17- to 23-year olds in the Faculties of Engineering and the Built Environment at the University of the Witwatersrand (177 Africans, 57 East Indians, 72 Whites; 54 women, 252 men). Analyses were made of the Matrices scores, an English Comprehension test, the Similarities subscale from the South African Wechsler Adult Intelligence Scale, end-of-year university grades, and high-school grade point average. Out of the 36 Matrices problems, the African students solved an average of 23; East Indian students, 26; and White students, 29 (p〈.001), placing them at the 60th, 71st, and 86th percentiles, respectively, and yielding IQ equivalents of 103, 108, and 118 on the 1993 US norms. The same pattern of group differences was found on the Comprehension Test, the Similarities subscale, university course grades, and high-school grade-point average. The items on the Matrices ‘behaved’ in the same way for the African students as they did for the non-African students, thereby indicating the test's internal validity. Item analyses, including a confirmatory factor analysis, showed that the African/non-African difference was most pronounced on the general factor of intelligence. Concurrent validity was demonstrated by correlating the Matrices with the other measures, both individually and in composite. For the African group, the mean r=.28, p〈.05, and for the non-African group, the mean r=.27, p〈.05. Although the intercepts of the regression lines for the two groups were significantly different, their slopes were not. The results imply that scores on the Raven's Matrices are as valid for Africans as they are for non-Africans.

Notes: This study explores the equivalence of web-based administration with no local supervision and traditional paper-and-pencil supervised versions of OPQ32i (the ipsative format version of the Occupational Personality Questionnaire). Samples of data were collected from a range of client projects and matched in terms of industry sector, assessment purpose (selection or development) and candidate category (graduate or managerial/professional). The analysis indicates that lack of local supervision in high-stakes situations has little if any impact on scale scores. At worst, some scales appear to show shifts of less than quarter of an SD, with most scales showing little change, if any. Analyses in terms of the Big Five show differences of less than .2 of an SD. Scale reliabilities and scale covariances appear to be unaffected by the differences between the supervised and unsupervised administration conditions.

Notes: Expectations, which are beliefs about a future state of affairs, constitute a basic psychological mechanism that underlies virtually all human behavior. Although expectations serve as a central component in many theories of organizational behavior, they have received limited attention in the organizational justice literature. The goal of this paper is to introduce the concept of justice expectations and explore its implications for understanding applicant perceptions. To conceptualize justice expectations, we draw on research on expectations conducted in multiple disciplines. We discuss the three sources of expectations – direct experience, indirect influences, and other beliefs – and use this typology to identify the likely antecedents of justice expectations in selection contexts. We also discuss the impact of expectations on attitudes, cognitions, and behaviors, focusing specifically on outcomes tied to selection environments. Finally, we explore the theoretical implications of incorporating expectations into research on applicant perceptions and discuss the practical significance of justice expectations in selection contexts.

Notes: This article proposes a new theory called the Applicant Attribution-Reaction Theory (AART) to better understand attributional processes in the formation of applicant reactions. The theory proposes that applicants' affective, behavioral, and cognitive reactions, such as fairness, test perceptions, test performance, and motivation, are fundamentally driven by an attributional process. A key implication of the theory is that perceptions such as fairness and test attitudes carry little explanatory power; instead they are consequences of attributional processing. We provide a brief review of dominant applicant reactions frameworks, review the social psychological literature on attributions, and present the theory. We then contrast the theory to existing conceptualizations, and finally describe its potential for better understanding several key topics in applicant reactions, including the justice judgment process, test performance, and racial subgroup differences. The theory has the potential to integrate many diverse perspectives on applicant reactions, and provides numerous directions for future research and practice.

Notes: This research contributes to the understanding of reactions to different selection screening methods. A sample of students (n=153) experienced one of three types of screening techniques, face-to-face interview screenings, telephone interview screenings, and interactive voice response (IVR) screenings, with identical content in a pre- to post-screening longitudinal study. We further examined the role of two important individual differences, cognitive ability and conscientiousness, in attitudes toward the screenings. IVR is a “non-interpersonal” screening method so it was not surprising that it was rated lower in terms of procedural justice factors such as interpersonal treatment, two–way communication, and openness but what is encouraging is that there were no differences between other labor intensive and costly technologies and IVR on the other procedural justice factors. Therefore, there do not appear to be any major negatives in terms of structural fairness among alternative screening devices implying that organizations can make choices between screening methods based on other factors such as recruitment strategy or cost.

Notes: Current debates and initiatives relating to the welfare regime in Japan focus on the contributions of informal and community networks. In this article, we adopt the concept of social capital, which is assessed according to three categories – structural social capital, experiential individual social capital and anticipatory individual social capital – in order to evaluate the assumptions and strengths of community in Japan. The findings are based on a small-scale survey conducted in the Greater Kobe area in 2002. The study revealed that the level of structural social capital is ‘average’ and the level of experiential individual social capital is ‘rather low’. However, the anticipatory individual social capital, which is the expectation of future assistance whether conditional or unconditional, is higher than the experiential individual social capital. The findings suggest that, in Japan, people's belief that they will receive assistance in the future has a significant impact on their level of achievement. Such findings may help us understand the nature of the welfare regime in Japan: it depends on a sense of general trust, which effectively supports the informal groups and community networks that provide assistance to their members.

Notes: Historically, insufficient resources and assistance have been provided to young people leaving state care. Care leavers have been found to experience significant health, social and educational deficits including homelessness, disproportionate involvement in juvenile crime and prostitution, poor social supports and early parenthood. This paper compares the UK and Australian debates around improving outcomes for care leavers. Whilst there are some minor differences in the respective legislative frameworks and responses, the similarities are far greater. Both countries have failed to provide the range of in-care, transitional and post-care supports and services required to ensure improved outcomes for care leavers.

Notes: This study aims at describing and analysing what kinds of social services are provided for physically abused children in Sweden. The social services files were examined for 113 children under 15 years of age (67 boys and 46 girls) who had been reported to the police as having been physically abused by a parent or equivalent caretaker in a particular police district. The children's social services files indicated an increased risk of a parental abusive behaviour prior to the abuse incident. There had been former interventions in 81 per cent of the families and previous reports on neglect or abuse in 44 per cent of the 113 families. After the abuse incident, investiga-tions were opened in 80 per cent of the cases. The three most common interventions were placement in foster care, referrals to Child and Adolescent Psychiatric Service and Social Services support contacts. The study shows that there was a tendency towards more proactive work with injured children, children of immigrant parents and children of mentally ill parents.

Notes: This study looks at the perceptions of citizens in a modern Chinese society and explores whether social rights and responsibilities are unified at both ideal and practice levels. It finds that the conception that the Chinese have a weak image of social rights is no longer true. The Chinese are generally ‘right-deficit’ at the practice level. It is also found that there are wide gaps between ideal rights and practice rights, and between ideal responsibilities and practice responsibilities, except in components affected by cultural, contextual and institutional factors. The findings suggest that, for a full understanding of social citizenship, it is necessary to look at both ideal and practice levels of social citizenship. Cultural, contextual and institutional factors are identified as moderating people's behaviour and preferences in regard to social citizenship.

Notes: It is commonly assumed that popular support for national pension systems depends on widespread satisfaction with projected benefit levels among the working age population, and in particular that public support for the system will be jeopardised if the taxpayers do not feel confident about eventually receiving the promised benefits. On the basis of Norwegian survey data, two sets of questions are addressed in the article: (1) Is there a widespread lack of confidence in and satisfaction with the Norwegian National Insurance pension scheme? and (2) Is there an association between confidence and satisfaction and people's political attitudes towards the National Insurance pension scheme? Although we do not find any signs of a dramatic erosion of confidence towards the system, we do find that overall satisfaction with projected benefits is low among the working age population. Contrary to what one might expect, however, confidence and satisfaction from the point of view of individual interests appear not to be associated with a political preference for privatisation.

Notes: The aims of this population-based study were to analyse educational attainment at ages 24–25 among children of lone parents in comparison with children living with two biological parents, to increase understanding of the factors that seem to be of major importance in increased risks of lower educational achievement and to examine how the life circumstances of non-custodial parents influence possible differences. We found that children who grew up with only one parent showed lower educational attainment than did children in two-parent families. Poorer educational performance on the part of the offspring of lone parents can be explained to a large extent by socio-economic disadvantage, especially a lack of economic resources. However, achievement varies according to cause of lone parenting, and findings strongly indicate that adjusting solely for custodial parents’ circumstances may lead to under-estimation of the relationship. Lone parenting seems to have a more detrimental effect on girls’ education, and also within groups of children with highly educated parents than among those with a relatively low level of education.

Notes: This article contains a presentation and analysis of the results from two qualitative studies, which examined female drug abusers’ everyday lives and the social support available to them within their close relationships. Both studies concerned women who were participating in work-training or treatment programmes and who were in the process of giving up drug abuse. The two main questions concerned the supply of social support from the women's social networks and whether the amount of support available or lack of support had any impact on the exit process. Social support within different relationships of the women's social networks is presented, as well as different types of professional social support and treatment. The results in relation to previous research about female drug abusers and social support from gender and class perspectives are discussed. Conclusions about three important factors when creating a new life after drug abuse are drawn.

Notes: This article addresses comparative research on what has come to be called, in (British) English, ‘child protection’ or, rather differently, in Finnish ‘lastensuojelu’. In developing a cross-national research project on lastensuojelu/child protection practices in England and Finland, we found it necessary to go back a few steps, to address what might usually be considered as ‘background issues’. This article discusses the welfare state traditions in both countries, especially with respect to families and children, in order to contextualise the focus of ongoing qualitative research on micro comparisons. When comparing the mundane practices of child protection and the ways problems and clienthoods are constructed, as in this study, historical, social, cultural and linguistic issues matter. Indeed, very basic concepts such as ‘child protection’ and ‘child protection case’ become problematic in the comparison.

Notes: Pressed-powder cosmetics with an extremely soft and light sense of touch were prepared using a novel ultra-low pressure molding technology. These novel pressed-powder cosmetics have a very high porosity creating a light silky feeling. Furthermore, with this novel molding, large quantities of organic crystalline powder can be incorporated into the cosmetics resulting in a good spreadability and smooth sense of touch. The novel molding technology named soft press molding developed in the current study involves several characteristic stages: (i) mixing the binder dispersion; (ii) soft compression; and (iii) drying (volatilizing a disperse medium). The first process is the mixing of water-repellent powder with an aqueous dispersion of elastic film-forming polymer into a pendular or funicular state. After compressing and drying, an interspersed polymer effectively combines the particles forming contact between the particles. In this study, calcium lauroyl taurate (CaLT) was used as an example of an organic crystalline powder to provide a silky smooth sense of touch to a powdery foundation. CaLT particles deform to a thin layer readily when applied to skin, creating a smooth pleasing sensation while spreading. Conventional high-pressure molding causes deformation during compression resulting in hard-caking of the molded cosmetics. However, by using soft press molding, the powdery foundation can contain more than 30 wt% of CaLT without hard-caking, and the resultant powdery foundation expresses an extremely smooth sensation to the touch. Furthermore, this powdery foundation shows a natural finish approximating bare skin due to the deformation of a thin layer on application restricting the light scattering, a characteristic property of a powder.

Notes: Solar or UVA (ultraviolet A) irradiation of the skin causes biological damage, including apoptosis, which is evident in the form of sunburn cells and the overexpression of p53. These two parameters, as well as the measurement of cellular viability, were used to evaluate the effects of UV irradiation on a reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model, with and without the photoprotection of a broad spectrum sunblock. Reconstructed epidermis models were irradiated by solar spectrum (420 mJ cm–2) or UVA (20 J cm–2). In the absence of irradiation, and with irradiation doses of 420 mJ cm–2 and 20 J cm–2, viability was estimated at 95, 12 and 70% respectively. Sunburn cells per cm were evaluated at 0, 41 and 22, respectively under these same conditions. The apoptotic response was studied through the expression of p53, which increased at first and was then followed by a specific cleavage, 24 h after irradiation at 420 mJ cm–2. However, in the presence of a broad spectrum sunblock preparation (a combination of OMC, MBTBP, TiO2 and ZnO) and after irradiation at 420 mJ cm–2 and 20 J cm–2, viability increased to 40 and 85% respectively. The number of sunburn cells (SBC) per cm fell to 12 and nine respectively. The photoprotection provided by the sunblock limited the increase in the expression of p53 and resulted in the total disappearance of the cleavage. This study shows that human reconstructed epidermis is a valid skin model for use in the evaluation of the effects of solar and UVA irradiation, as well as in the testing of the efficacy of sunfilters.

Notes: Wrinkles are the most obvious expression of skin aging and are manifested by numerous changes in the organization and structure of the dermis. To better understand if this tissue modification could be linked to a modification of cell function, contractile and synthesis capacities of normal aged human fibroblasts and those obtained from a biopsy of a forehead wrinkle were studied and compared. The capacity of fibroblasts to adhere to the collagen network and to maintain a three-dimensional structure of the dermis was studied using a three-dimensional model of a collagen gel. The metabolic activity of both cell types was determined immunochemically by quantifying collagen I synthesis. Human fibroblasts from the wrinkle contracted the collagen gel less than normal aged human fibroblasts and synthesized less collagen I. The results show that the metabolic activity of aging fibroblasts decelerates and that aging fibroblasts lose their capacity to adhere to collagen fibers, thus limiting the possibility of organizing dermal tissue.The potential of an active ingredient to compensate for the reduction of metabolic activity and to restore the contractile capacity of fibroblasts from the wrinkle was investigated. This effect was compared with a reference molecule, vitamin C.

Notes: The objective of this research was the application of headspace (HS)–solid-phase microextraction (SPME) for quantitation of formaldehyde present in raw materials and cosmetic formulations. The formaldehyde was derivatized in situ first with pentafluorophenylhydrazine (PFPH), to form a derivative hydrazone. The hydrozone was adsorbed on a SPME fiber during headspace extraction under controlled conditions (temperature, volume, etc.). After the adsorption step, the SPME fiber was directly transferred into the chromatography (GC) injection port, in which the analytes were thermally desorbed. Deuterated acetone is regarded as an internal standard (IS) in order to quantitate the formaldehyde content. For the experiment, chromatograph equipped with a flame ionization detector (GC/FID) was employed. A gas chromatograph/mass spectrometer (GC/MS) was used for the qualitative confirmation of results in this work.

Notes: We compared age-related changes in wrinkles in eight areas of facial skin (forehead, glabella, upper eyelid, corner of the eye, lower eyelid, nasolabial groove, cheek, and corner of the mouth) and sagging in the subzygomatic area of Caucasian females and of Japanese females. The subjects studied included 85 healthy Caucasian females (aged 20–69 years) living in Cincinnati in the U.S. and 70 Japanese females (aged 20–69 years) living in Tokyo. Photos of the face in frontal and in oblique 45 views were analyzed. Wrinkles in the face and sagging in the subzygomatic area were graded on Japanese photoscales, respectively, by the same experi-enced observer. The wrinkle score increased with age in all eight areas of the face examined in Caucasian females as well as in Japanese females. In the group aged 20–29 years, the wrinkle score in each area was significantly higher in Caucasian females than in Japanese females. The wrinkle scores in the forehead, glabella, upper eyelid, and corner of the eyes were similar at advanced ages between the two groups, while the wrinkle scores in lower areas of the face (lower eyelid, nasolabial groove, cheek, and corner of the mouth) were markedly higher in Caucasian females than in Japanese females in each age group, and reached an upper limit at advanced ages in Caucasian females. The sagging score also increased with age in Caucasian females as well as in Japanese females. The sagging score was significantly higher in Caucasian females than in Japanese females in the groups aged 40 years or more. These results suggest more marked wrinkle formation in all areas of the face in younger age groups of Caucasian females living in North America than in Japanese females living in Tokyo. In particular, Caucasian females showed marked age-related wrinkle formation in the lower areas of the face, probably due to sagging in the subzygomatic area, which suggests a higher susceptibility to sagging in the subzygomatic area of Caucasian females.

Notes: The purpose of our studies was to verify efficacy and skin compatibility of a medical face care system containing 2% lactic acid (LA) as active ingredient in a specially designed vehicle (Follicle Targeting System) in adult subjects with mild acne vulgaris. The first study (46 patients) demonstrated superiority of 2% LA in comparison to 2% salicylic acid with respect to number of comedones and inflammatory lesions. The second study evaluated 90 patients receiving distinct combinations of face care products (Eucerin® Impure Skin, Hamburg, Germany), i.e. cleansing gel, facial tonic (2% LA) and cream gel (2% LA). All treatments were performed twice daily over a 12 weeks period. Lesion counts, cyanoacrylate biopsies and determination of quality of life by questionnaires were performed at different timepoints. A reduction of comedones by 56% corresponding to an 46% increase of quality of life index was demonstrated in patients applying cleansing gel, facial tonic and cream gel. For the first time we were able to show a significant improvement concerning the quality of life after using a new face care line. Especially adults with mild forms of acne may benefit from this effective skin care regimen.

Notes: Many hair characteristics (e.g. color and curl) are genetically determined. Here, we investigated whether hair quality is also genetically controlled and related to differences in hair composition. Female, Caucasian subjects (n = 292) were recruited into this study and segmented by self-perceived hair quality and by permanent colorant usage. Hair fibers were collected and characterized by amino acid analysis, dry tensile elastic modulus testing and two-dimensional electrophoresis of hair protein extracts.Protein analysis revealed a string of 66 kDa proteins that correlated with hair of high quality. Loss of low molecular weight (14–29 kDa) proteins increased with colorant usage, particularly in hair of low quality. Amino acid analysis showed that the levels of serine and threonine across all the subjects followed bimodal frequency distributions suggestive of a genetic influence. Overall, data suggested that perception of quality was linked to high serine and threonine levels. In addition, where hair was colored, quality was associated with lower cysteic acid levels. Lower cysteic acid levels were not linked to lower colorant usage and our data suggest that high quality hair may be more resistant to colorant damage. Elastic modulus was significantly higher in hair of higher quality (4.65 GPa) compared to all medium and low quality hair combined (4.3 GPa), P 〈 0.02. This suggests a link between altered hair composition and mechanical properties. In conclusion, the composition and mechanical properties of hair have been linked to hair quality. We hypothesize that hair quality is thus likely to be genetically determined. Understanding of the links between hair composition and its properties could be utilized in the future for designing products targeted to each individual's hair make-up, and for producing diagnostic tools for determining hair quality.

Notes: Following direct exposure to sunlight while pursuing leisure activities, many have noticed a strong sense of fatigue in the evening. In this regard, our results of a survey of awareness showed that the development of fatigue from solar exposure of the body was generally recognized. On the other hand, a tool for objective and quantitative determination of mental fatigue has recently been reported. Known as the Advanced Trail Making Test (ATMT), it is a method of evaluating brain function. In the present study, we attempted to determine fatigue development caused by exposure of the human body to solar radiation using ATMT results. For 3 days in the summer season, 15 male subjects (26–41 years old) received exposure to the sun equivalent to 100 kJ cm−2 of ultraviolet radiation three to four times each day. During the periods of exposure, the subjects wore short-sleeved shirts and short pants, and covered their heads with a towel. Following the 3-day period, they were divided into two groups based on their subjective evaluation of a sense of tiredness, fatigued (n = 10) and non-fatigued (n = 5). In the fatigued group, a significant increase in the subjective score for fatigue sense was observed in the evening of all 3 days following sun exposure, as well as in the morning of the third day, as compared with those in the non-fatigued group. Further, a significant increase in average ATMT value was also observed in the fatigued group in the evening of the first and second days following sun exposure, as well as in the morning of the third day. These results indicate that ATMT may be a useful evaluation tool for quantitative and objective measurement of mental fatigue caused by exposure to sunlight.

Notes: There is great interest in the cosmetic field in improving the shape of the face, which is determined by the amount of bone, muscle and subcutaneous fat. We examined the amount of facial subcutaneous fat in healthy women by magnetic resonance imaging (MRI), and investigated the distribution of fat in relation to the body shape. A total of 38 healthy women; 10 lean, 18 normal and 10 obese subjects, were examined by cephalometric MRI to obtain T1-weighted images, by which fat regions can be clearly observed. The area of subcutaneous fat was greater in obese subjects than in normal subjects, and was decreased in lean subjects. At 45 measured points, the thickness of subcutaneous fat was greater in the cheek near the nose independently of the body shape, and the surface of the masseter muscle and lower jaw increased according to the body mass index (BMI). This research suggested that there are two types of regions, one type maintains fat mass and the other type increases with BMI.

Notes: In this study the applicability of the surface-sensitive Time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry (ToF-SIMS) technique to hair analysis and associated aqueous processing is evaluated. ToF-SIMS analysis of ‘as received’ human hair indicates the presence of silicones, anionic surfactants, and cationic conditioners, from previous treatments, on the fiber surface. Cleaning of the hair with SLS or SLES results in adsorption of the surfactants onto the fiber surface. In particular, the more non-polar surfactant components have greater substantivity for the fiber surface, as indicated by the relative increase in their ToF-SIMS intensity. Application of the Incroquat Behenyl 18-MEA conditioner to both ‘virgin’ and bleached hair results in the adsorption of the cationic C18, C20, C22, and C21 surfactant components onto the hair surface. The ToF-SIMS data indicate higher levels of conditioner on the bleached hair relative to the undamaged hair.

Notes: Vitamin A palmitate photostability in relation to ultravoilet A (UVA) and ultravoilet B (UVB) was tested in hydroxy ethyl cellulose hydrogels at pH 4.0, 5.6, 7.0, and 8.0, alone and with the addition of sunscreens (3,4-methylbenzilidencamphor or butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane) or an antioxidant (butylated hydroxy toluene). The photostability of vitamin A palmitate was also tested in encapsulated systems (Tagravit_A1 microcapsules, Lipotec_liposomes, phosphatidylcholine liposomes, and Lipotec_nanocapsules) dispersed in gels at pH 5.6 and 7.0. The stability of retinyl palmitate over time in hydroxy ethyl cellulose hydrogels at pH 5.6 and 7.0 (stored 1 month at 25 or 40 °C), alone or with butylated hydroxy toluene, was also tested. The stability of retinyl palmitate over time in encapsulated systems, dispersed in gels at pH 5.6 and 7.0, was also studied. O/W emulsions were also prepared to compare the stability of vitamin A palmitate introduced in a lipophilic/hydrophilic medium (O/W emulsions) and a hydrophilic medium (hydrogels). HPLC analysis showed that encapsulated systems such as Lipotec_nanocapsules, Tagravit_A1 microcapsules, phosphatidylcholine liposomes, and Lipotec_liposomes protect the vitamin A ester over time from hydrolysis and from oxidation to retinaldeide and retinoic acid, and that Lipotec_nanocapsules and phosphatidylcholine liposomes also improve the vitamin's photostability. A change in pH (5.6–7.0) of the gels did not influence the vitamin ester's stability. pH levels of 4.0 and 8.0 determined a decrease in the stability of retinyl palmitate in the gels. A high concentration of sunscreens improved the photostability of retinyl palmitate in the gels at pH 5.6 and 7.0. Butylated hydroxy toluene protected retinyl palmitate from degradation induced by light at all the pH levels studied and by heat at pH 5.6 and 7.0, as can be seen from the study of the photostability of vitamin A palmitate under UVB and UVA and of stability over time. Rheological studies showed a slight decrease in the viscosity of the gels after UVB–UVA irradiation and a higher decrease in the viscosity of the gels and the emulsions after storage at 25 and 40°C. This decrease can be attributed to a partial degradation of hydroxy ethyl cellulose and of emulsifier, as can be seen from the decrease in shear stress versus shear rate values under these conditions of storage, denoting a depolymerization of the rheological modifier.

Notes: This study presents a new approach that can stabilize effectively l-ascorbic acid in water-in-oil-in-water (w/o/w) double emulsions. Basically, the behavior of l-ascorbic acid in the aqueous phase was observed, considering its molecular deformation. Then, it was found that the stability determined in the aqueous phase by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) showed that the collapse of ionization of l-ascorbic acid played a crucial role in protecting the molecular deformation. Then, the stable aqueous system was incorporated into the internal aqueous phase of the double emulsions. From the PLC analysis, it was observed that the l-ascorbic acid in an appropriate system showed high molecular stability for a long time. Moreover, in the measurement of in vitro skin permeation, the l-ascorbic acid stabilized in this study showed considerable skin permeation ability, indicating its potential applicability in pharmaceutics and cosmetics.

Notes: Details of the specular reflection of curved hair tresses, resulting from illumination with a collimated incident light source, were examined both qualitatively and quantitatively using high-resolution photography and image analysis. The reflections were found to consist of a multitude of light dots aligned with the fibers and typically separated by a distance of 81–145 μm. The contrast between the dots (specular reflection) and the darker regions (diffuse reflection) of the entire reflection band was found to increase with increasing pigmentation of hair. Highly pigmented Oriental hair provided more contrast within the specular reflection band than unpigmented natural white hair. A quantitative description of the light reflection patterns within the specular reflection band included two-dimensional distribution of luminosity, histograms of the frequency of appearance for peak maxima and minima in luminosity distribution plots, and histograms of absolute maxima and minima of luminosity along the length of the fibers. Specular reflection from African hair, which consists of many curls that provide multiple and randomly distributed reflection centers, have also been investigated. Using microscopy software, image tool2.0, and a method termed image threshold, the number of reflection sites and their shapes could be quantified. For example, treatment of African hair with synthetic sebum was shown to significantly affect the reflection patterns, resulting in a decrease in the overall hair luster. Comparison of reflection patterns from Caucasian frizzy, very curly, and curly hair is also discussed.

Notes: This article describes the current understanding of the effect of ultraviolet (UV) radiation and visible light on the structure and integrity of human hair fibers; furthermore, it discusses current and past approaches to the protection of hair from UV rays. Relevant literature is reviewed.

Notes: About sixty years ago Frank and Evans showed, by entropy measurements, that when a “non-polar molecule dissolves in water it modifies the water structure in the direction of greater ‘cristallinity’, the water builds a microscopic iceberg around it” Now, we propose the “concept of ice-like-water capture”: a lowering of organized ice-like water promotes aggregation (loss of solubility) of the filaggrin/keratin1/keratin10 associations through their hydrophobic patches. The capture of ice-like water may be performed by the glucoceramides-rich bilayers in stratum granulosum. Probably, the same process aggregates the proteins of corneocytes envelope as well as corneodesmosomes proteins. According to the “concept of ice-like-water capture”, to regulate the keratinization, it is not total water that must be added to the stratum corneum, but ice-like water that must be removed from stratum granulosum. Both petrolatum (lipophilic ingredient) and glycerol (hydrophilic ingredient) would capture the ice-like water, most probably after combination with the lipid bilayers of stratum corneum. Moisturizing cream, when organized in secondary droplets is likely to perform the same action. Measurements by near-infrared reflectance spectroscopy of the skin show that petrolatum; glycerol and/or moisturizing cream enhance the quantity of bulk water (1890–1897 nm band). As the ice-like water is the complement of bulk water, the enhanced bulk water let presume an ice-like water lessening. Some desynchronization (late or forward) of the keratinization/differentiation which confer the somatosensory problems associated with “dry and flaky skin” may be linked to an excess or lack of ice-like. For instance, the winter xerosis, very common by chilling weather, could be explained by an increase of ice-like water driven by the fall of the temperature.

Notes: Many studies on the preparation and application of microcapsules have been reported in the literature. We developed an innovative encapsulation technology by using silicone–resin–polypeptide as the encapsulating material. The resultant microcapsule was easily prepared from silicone–resin–polypeptide. For this microcapsule not only was the extent of encapsulation as high as 90%, but the particle size could be controlled to obtain very small sizes (average particle diameter was 2.2 μm) as well. Moreover, these microcapsules were resistant to relatively high shear forces and were stable over a long-time period. Application in cosmetics by using microcapsule involving UV absorbers was examined. It was possible to apply organic UV absorbers in water-rich formulations without any surfactant. This formulation demonstrated a good moisturizing and soft skin feel. The result showed this microcapsule might be widely applied in cosmetics.

Notes: Liberated nuclear factor-kappaB (NF-κB) is translocated into the nucleus where it can change or alter the expression of target genes, resulting in the secretion of extracellular signaling molecules including melanotrophic factors affecting the melanocyte. In order to demonstrate the possible role of NF-κB activation on the synthesis of melanotrophic factors from the keratinocytes, the activities of NF-κB induced by melanogenesis inhibitors were determined in human HaCaT keratinocytes transfected with pNF-κB-SEAP-NPT plasmid. Transfectant cells released the secretory alkaline phosphatase (SEAP) as a transcription reporter in response to the NF-kB activity. Melanogenesis inhibitors such as niacinamide, kojic acid, hydroquinone, resorcinol, arbutin and glycolic acid were pre-incubated with transfectant HaCaT cells for 3 h and then irradiated with ultraviolet B (UVB). Of the melanogenesis inhibitors tested, kojic acid (IC50 = 60 μM) was found to be the most potent inhibitor of UVB-upregulating NF-κB activation in transfectant HaCaT cells, which is followed by niacinamide (IC50 = 540 μM). Especially kojic acid and niacinamide effectively lowered NF-κB binding as measured by the electrophoretic mobility shift assay. Furthermore, these two inhibitors remarkably reduced the secretion level of IL (interleukin)-6, one of the melanotrophic factors, triggered by UV radiation of the HaCaT cells. These observations suggest that melanogenesis inhibitors working at the in vivo level might act partially through the modulation of the synthesis of melanotrophic factors in keratinocytes.

Notes: Although the intensity and quality of fragrance perception is elicited by the physical mixture of volatile chemicals available to stimulate the olfactory system, the subjective experience and response an individual exhibits is often the product of those sensory or physiological signals and higher level psychological processes involved in perception, memory and judgment. For example, the frequency and duration of exposure to a fragrance can determine whether the subsequent perception is diminished (adaptation) or enhanced (sensitization), but an individual's memories of prior associations, the situational context or expectations, and their current emotional state are potent modifiers of the intensity and quality of the final chemosensory experience. Similarly, the context in which an irritant sensation is experienced (e.g., the product or situation) may determine whether it is perceived as an adverse or pleasurable sensation. Results from numerous laboratory studies have shown that these factors play a key role in the evaluation of odor and irritant sensations arising from the perception of fragrances. Importantly, cognitive and psychosocial factors appear to have significance for understanding reactions to fragrances in a variety of use situations, from consumer products to indoor environments.

Notes: One of the most important claims within aromatherapy is that certain aromas are stress-relief agents. In the early 1990s, we developed a self-report instrument, called Mood-MappingTM, that taps consumers’ emotional responses to fragranced products. Based on our experience with extensive testing, we predicted that the most relaxing fragrances would also be stress-relieving. In order to determine whether this was true in a consumer in-home setting, we compared a variety of fragranced bubble bath samples with matched unfragranced control samples in a home-use test. We employed self-report measures of stress, relaxation, and other moods before and after each subject took a bath. We found that baths taken with a fragranced sample were significantly more stress-relieving and relaxing than those using an unfragranced control. Furthermore, specific odor qualities of the fragrances were more stress-relieving than others. We next examined whether these specific types of relaxing fragrances were stress-relieving as measured physiologically. We utilized a standard laboratory stressor, the Stroop test, in a series of studies of various relaxing fragrances. We obtained the electromyogram (EMG) from the Trapezius muscle (back of the shoulder) as well as other physiological measures during these experiments. Trapezius EMG levels reliably increase during the Stroop test. We have found that a special type of relaxing Myo-relax® fragrances (patent pending) have a muscle relaxing effect, namely, they will significantly reduce the Trapezius EMG response during the Stroop test as compared to an unfragranced control. One of these, Relaxscent from Colgate's Project Dionysos, will be featured. Thus, we have shown that Mood-Mapped relaxing fragrances are demonstrably stress-relieving as measured both physiologically as well as by self-report in a consumer setting.

Notes: The market development of Aromatherapy products has been heavily influenced by the twentieth century model of brand management and regulatory issues. The result has seen Aromatherapy products focus primarily on product attributes and the physical benefits of use, at the expense of exploring and developing the consumer's emotional response to the brand. Aromachology – the science of the effect of scent on mood and behavior or the ‘Psychology of Scent’– represents the next stage of the advancement of Aromatherapy into the twenty-first century. A major opportunity exists to refocus products and brands on the emotional and lifestyle/environmental benefits which these products can deliver. The presentation will explore new ways of developing fragrances capable of communicating stronger, more compelling emotional benefits to consumers.

Notes: To show the benefits of retinol encapsulation in cosmetic industry, we compared the diffusion of two different retinol preparations through skin:oil-in-water (o/w) emulsions of retinol, also called ‘free retinol’, and suspension of Cylasphere® including retinol, also called ‘encapsulated retinol’. Two methods were used: Franz cell elucidated retinol release and storage in a hairless mouse skin according to time for the two types of preparations. The dosage of retinol by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) showed that encapsulated retinol was maintained into the skin for a longer time than free retinol. Raman microspectrometry measurements established a spectral image of the skin and determined the localization of retinol. Maps were collected according to time. They detailed the shifts of free and encapsulated retinol in the epidermis of a human biopsy. Spheres were smaller than droplets and they moved two times faster at this level of the skin.

Notes: The face is composed of complicated anatomical components, presenting unique portions, such as the eyes, nose and mouth in a relatively narrow area. Moreover, the facial skin is densely populated by the pilosebaceous units and sweat glands, and its stratum corneum (SC) is much thinner than that of the trunk and limbs, although it is always exposed to the environment. Among various portions of the facial skin, some are more easily irritated than others by environmental stimuli, or are more often affected by certain dermatoses. However, the functional aspects of the different portions of the facial skin have not been studied in detail under a strictly controlled environment in sufficiently large numbers of subjects covering different age groups. Thus, we conducted studies in winter with various biophysical techniques, such as transepidermal water loss (TEWL), as a parameter for SC barrier function, high-frequency conductance as that for skin surface hydration state, skin surface lipids, pH, blood flow and skin surface temperature on the forehead, mid-portion of the cheek (cheek in short), nasal tip (nose in short), nasolabial fold and chin of 20 healthy Japanese females aged 22–37 years (average 25 years) in a climate chamber adjusted to 21 °C and 50% relative humidity. Thereafter, we studied the influence of ageing on these biophysical parameters by collecting data of TEWL, high-frequency conductance and size of superficial corneocytes on the cheek, nasolabial fold and chin of 303 healthy Japanese female volunteers of different ages. The obtained results showed that the barrier function of the SC was best on the cheek, presenting the lowest TEWL, which was significantly higher on the nasolabial fold and chin than on the cheek. TEWL showed a decrease with age. In contrast, skin hydration state was higher on the nose, but it tended to be lower on the nasolabial fold, showing a mild age-related increase. The corneocytes on the nasolabial fold and chin were smaller than those on the cheek. They revealed a clear increase in size with age. Skin surface lipids were richest on the nose, whereas the superficial pH on the nose was the lowest among the regions tested. The skin temperature was lowest on the cheek than on other areas of the face; although, together with the nose, its blood flow was higher than that of the others. These data indicate great regional differences observable in SC functions on the face. In general, the SC barrier function increases with age, probably because of a decreased epidermal turnover rate as recognized by the increase in corneocyte size. Among the various sites, the skin of the nasolabial fold and chin, whose SC consisted of the smallest corneocytes, showed poorest SC properties in barrier function, suggesting the presence of mild invisible inflammation. It is understandable that this area easily develops not only the complaint of sensitive skin to cosmetics but also dermatitis because of various external agents.

Notes: Human skin is composed of epidermal and dermal layers, each of which has its own functional importance. Dermis consist of a fine network of collagen fibers, elastic fibers, and other components of the extracellular matrix (ECM). ECM consist primarily of proteins and complex sugars, which form fibrillar networks and a ground substance. Collagen is an important structural component of skin connective tissue and provides the tensile strength of skin.Approximately 70–80% of the dry weight of skin consists of collagen. The most abundant collagen types in skin are types I and III; the former accounts for 80% of the total collagen content of skin and the latter for approximately 15%. The other collagen types present in skin include type IV collagen, which is abundant in the basement membrane (BM); type V collagen, which is located pericellularly; type VI collagen, which plays a role in matrix assembly and is present as microfibrils between collagen fibers; and type VII collagen, which is a structural component of anchoring fibrils. Elastin accounts for only about 1–2% of the dry weight of skin but is important for the maintenance of skin elasticity and resilience. Glycosaminoglycans are of central importance for the maintenance of a water balance in skin, even though the quantities in ECM are small (0.1–0.3% of the dry weight of skin).In the dermis fibroblasts are responsible for the synthesis of ECM proteins. The fibroblasts in the dermis spend majority of time in quiescent state. However in response to activation, the fibroblasts can be reactivated, and certain pool of cell is able to differentiate into myofibroblasts which have important role in repairing skin defects such as during wound healing. During aging the number of fibroblasts is markedly reduced.Also the response of fibroblasts to various growth factors and mechanical or pathological stimulates (wound healing) is diminished.Skin collagen synthesis declines with aging and as the result of such external factors as long-term sun exposure and medications, for example, topical corticosteroids. In aging skin, collagen fibers become thicker and less soluble and the synthesis of collagen declines. Skin thickness remains quite constant between 20 and 70 years of age, after which a marked decrease in skin thickness occurs. During aging the expression of collagenases are increased and inhibitors of collagenases are reduced leading to increased proteolysis of connective tissue. Recent studies have shown that collagen synthesis is declined in the skin of heavy smokers, while collagenases are increased inducing premature skin aging.The elastic properties of skin are also affected by aging. Along with increasing age, dermal elastic fibers become thicker and fragmented and oxytalan fibers appear fragmented and shortened. Disintegration of elastic fibers is already seen in a minority of fibers between ages 30 and 70, but the changes become more profound after the age of 70 years, affecting a majority of the fibers. As a result of the decreased number of elastic fibers in aged skin, the elastic recovery of skin decreases in elderly people. Even though the content of GAGs and proteoglycans is relatively small, they have significant role in collagen fibril formation, water content of dermis and in mechanical properties. During aging there are marked alterations in different proteoglycans. The amount and synthesis of versican (high molecular size) is decreased and small molecular size decorin is increased. In photoaged skin versican is increased and is closely associated to elastin while decorin is decreased.

Notes: As the skin is always in contact with oxygen and is increasingly exposed to environmental and artificial ultraviolet (UV) irradiation the risk of photooxidative damage induced by reactive oxygen species – finally leading to phototoxicity, photoaging and skin cancer – has increased substantially.The term reactive oxygen species (ROS) includes oxygen centered radicals like the superoxide anion radical and the hydroxyl radical, but also non-radical species such as hydrogen peroxide and singlet oxygen – all being produced in skin upon UV irradiation. In response to the attack of reactive oxygen species the skin has developed a complex antioxidant defense system including enzymatic and non-enzymatic antioxidants. As a first line of the enzymatic antioxidative defense, superoxide dismutases reduce superoxide anion radicals to hydrogen peroxide which subsequently is detoxified to water by catalase and glutathione peroxidases.We were interested whether the antioxidant enzymes manganese superoxide dismutase (SOD2) and glutathion peroxidase (GPx1) are inducible upon UV irradiation and whether repetitive UV exposure, as practiced for the light-hardening during phototherapy of photodermatoses, can even enhance the adaptive antioxidant response. To address this question skin fibroblasts and keratinocytes were exposed in vitro to single and repetitive UV low dose irradiation in different time intervals and afterwords challenged by high dose irradiation. The antioxidant response was measured in terms of steady state mRNA levels and activity changes of SOD2 or GPx1 as well as of the viability after challenge with high dose UV-irradiation.Interstingly, only UVA but not UVB irradiation was able to induce the mRNA steady state levels and the activity of SOD2 in fibroblasts. However, fibroblasts incubated with the supernatants from UVB-irradiated epidermal cells responded with an increase in SOD2. This increase on mRNA and activity levels was mediated by paracrine acting secreted factors produced by the keratinocytes. If fibroblasts were exposed repetitively to sublethal UVA doses the further up-regulation of SOD2 correlated with the protection against high UV doses. Importantly, SOD2 basal levels of protein content and activity substantially differed within cultivated cells and skin biopsies from different individuals. These results provide evidence for an adaptive antioxidative UV response of the skin. Interindividual differences might account for differences in the susceptibility to develop photodermatologic disorders related to photosensitivity, photoaging, and skin cancer.

Notes: Itch is a common symptom in dry skin related to inflammatory skin diseases, normal aging, and systemic diseases such as chronic renal failure, and HIV. However, correlations between itch and objective measures of barrier function and skin dryness such as skin hydration and transepidermal water loss have been rarely found. Recent experimental evidence indicates that damage to the stratum corneum with acetone/ether and water elicits a scratching response in mice and rats. These responses correlate to the number of PGP 9.5 immunoreactive fibers in the epidermis and to FOS-like immunoreactivity in the spinal cord. Other neuromediators involved in the pathogenesis of itch in dry skin are nerve growth factor (NGF), muscarinic acetylcholine receptors, and opiates. Serine proteases such as tryptase and their respective proteinase-activating receptor 2 (PAR2), recently found in both skin and nerves of patients with atopic eczema, suggest that these molecules may have a role in itch in dry skin. This has also been exemplified in the itchy and hyperkeratotic phenotype of the stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE) transgenic mouse model, which is over-expressing a serine protease. Developing inhibitors to these neuropeptides and mediators may be an attractive strategy for anti-itch treatment. The significant progress made in development of moisturizers may have an additional benefit in reducing the itch associated with dry skin. Formulating topical combination therapies containing moisturizers and anti-pruritics can significantly reduce the itch associated with dry skin. This paper will review the current clinical knowledge on the association between dry skin and itch and the recent advances in understanding the pathophysiology of this problem.

Notes: In Jordan, a growing industry has been established to produce different types of Dead Sea (DS) cosmetics that have DS salt (contains mainly NaCl, KCl, and MgCl2) in their formulas. In this work, the effect of DS salt on the rheology of hair shampoo containing the sodium lauryl ether sulfate as a main active matter was studied. The effects of DS salt and active matter concentration, and the temperature and time of salt mixing, on the rheological properties of hair shampoo were investigated. The salt-free shampoo showed a Newtonian behavior at ‘low active matter’ (LAM) and shear thinning at ‘high active matter’ (HAM). The presence of DS salt changed the rheological behavior of LAM shampoo from Newtonian (for the salt-free shampoo) to shear thinning. On the other hand, the behavior of HAM shampoo switched from shear thinning to Newtonian behavior in the presence of high concentration of DS salt. The addition of DS salt increased the apparent viscosity of shampoo to reach a maximum value that corresponded to a salt concentration of 1.5 wt.%. Further addition of DS salt led to a decrease in the shampoo viscosity to reach a value less than that of the salt-free sample at high salt concentration. Changing the mixing temperature (25–45 °C) and mixing time (15–120 min) of DS salt with shampoo has no significant influence on the rheological behavior. However, the mixing process increased the apparent viscosity of salt-free shampoo. The power law model fitted well the flow curves of hair shampoo with and without DS salt.

Notes: Despite its popularity in mass media effects research, the concept of media enjoyment has yet to be clearly explicated or theoretically integrated into media effects theories. In this analysis, the authors begin to address these limitations by first reviewing terms that have been used to capture the concept of media enjoyment, considering their underlying common features. The authors then introduce a tripartite model of media enjoyment-as-attitude and examine how past research meshes with this perspective. Finally, they consider how enjoyment-as-attitude predicts volitional and spontaneous behavioral outcomes in terms of both media exposure and content-influenced action (e.g., imitation) from 3 theoretical perspectives (uses and gratifications, social cognitive theory, and cultivation). In this way, the article sheds light on how the concept of enjoyment might help to elaborate the understanding of those theoretical processes and, conversely, how extant theoretical perspectives might inform the study of media enjoyment.

Notes: In studying media enjoyment, communication scholars have assumed a measurable, internally valid relationship between program content and viewer response. Drawing on literature from sport and social psychology in addition to communication, this article posits that media enjoyment reflects a coalescence of 3 factors: (a) social norms, (b) viewing situations, and (c) program content. The article explores this conceptualization with televised football as a content source, social norms that reflect hegemonic masculinity, and a viewing situation in which audience members are part of a homogenous social group. Drawing on uses and gratifications, social identity, disposition, and uncertainty reduction theories, the article suggests that social norms and viewing situations are ultimately as central to enjoyment as content is.

Notes: The relationship between uncertainty and information has long been at the forefront of the social scientific study of human behavior. The last decade has seen increased attention among communication scholars to the information-management process. The result has been significant widening of ideological lenses and an impressive growth of knowledge. However, a review of the literature shows that there is the need for a framework that integrates and extends these efforts. We advance the theory of motivated information-management to fill that need. The theory proposes a 3-phase process of information-management in interpersonal encounters, emphasizes the role of efficacy, and brings attention to the interactive nature of information-management in this context. We explicate the theory's propositional structure and present a graphical model intended to capture some of the overarching principles detailed in that structure.

Notes: In a recent article in this journal, Lombard, Snyder-Duch, and Bracken (2002) surveyed 200 content analyses for their reporting of reliability tests, compared the virtues and drawbacks of five popular reliability measures, and proposed guidelines and standards for their use. Their discussion revealed that numerous misconceptions circulate in the content analysis literature regarding how these measures behave and can aid or deceive content analysts in their effort to ensure the reliability of their data. This article proposes three conditions for statistical measures to serve as indices of the reliability of data and examines the mathematical structure and the behavior of the five coefficients discussed by the authors, as well as two others. It compares common beliefs about these coefficients with what they actually do and concludes with alternative recommendations for testing reliability in content analysis and similar data-making efforts.

Notes: Past research has demonstrated that nonlinear Web presentations (i.e., those that allow viewing in multiple orders) may lead to decreased free recall and learning of factual information compared to traditional, print-like linear Web designs. Recent evidence suggests, however, that nonlinear designs may facilitate learning of the interconnectedness of the presented information. This article presents experimental data from a combined sample of college students and adults (N= 172) manipulating site design and motivation designed to test for these various learning effects and to examine the potential influence of two mediating variables: selective scanning and elaboration. The central finding is that linear site designs encourage factual learning, whereas nonlinear designs increase knowledge structure density (KSD). The effects of elaboration and selective scanning, however, are mixed.

Notes: Using self-categorization theory, the effects of sex, chronic gender accessibility (i.e., gender schematicity), and gender identity salience on gender-linked language use in e-mail are examined. Results confirmed interactive effects only. Gender schematic men and women whose gender was salient used typical gender-linked language (e.g., men used male language). With low gender salience, schematic men and women used countertypical gender-linked language (e.g., men used female language). The language of nonschematics varied minimally. Results are discussed regarding previous research on gendered language, the nature of gender identity salience, and examining gendered language in computer-mediated communication.

Notes:   Over the last two decades many European governments have pursued ambitious research and development (R&D) policies with the aim of fostering innovation and economic growth in peripheral regions of Europe. The question is whether these policies are paying off. Arguments such as the need to reach a minimum threshold of research, the existence of important distance decay effects in the diffusion of technological spillovers, the presence of increasing returns to scale in R&D investments, or the unavailability of the necessary socio-economic conditions in these regions to generate innovation seem to cast doubts about the possible returns of these sort of policies. This paper addresses this question. A two-step analysis is used in order to first identify the impact of R&D investment of the private, public, and higher education sectors on innovation (measured as the number of patent applications per million population). The influence of innovation and innovation growth on economic growth is then addressed. The results indicate that R&D investment, as a whole, and higher education R&D investment in peripheral regions of the EU, in particular, are positively associated with innovation. The existence and strength of this association are, however, contingent upon region-specific socio-economic characteristics, which affect the capacity of each region to transform R&D investment into innovation and, eventually, innovation into economic growth.

Notes:   In the international business literature location behavior has traditionally been analyzed using Dunning's (1977) OLI framework, which focuses on the nature, role, and behavior of multinational enterprise (MNE). In this paper it is argued that this approach is now no longer appropriate for discussing the spatial behavior of MNEs, because of the fundamental changes which have taken place either in MNE organization or in the global and institutional environment for foreign direct investment (FDI). At the same time, the paper argues that current location theory from regional economics and economic geography is also largely unsuitable for discussing these issues, such that the spatial behavior of the MNE provides a set of difficult challenges to location analysts. There appears to have been some response to these issues from the international business and management literature, most notably the Porter literature on clusters. However, it is also argued here that this literature provides few, if any, real answers to the problems set by the geographical behavior of the MNE. It is concluded that a fusion of traditional economic geography approaches with a focus on the information and organizational aspects of the firm and the region under consideration may be a way forward for both theory and empirical analysis.

Notes:   This paper documents the investigation of the impact of metropolitan structure on the commute behavior of urban residents in the Netherlands. Not only has the impact of monocentrism versus polycentrism been analyzed, but the influence of metropolitan density and size has also been considered, together with the ratio of employment to population and the growth of the population and employment. Furthermore, data are used at a variety of levels of analysis ranging from the individual worker to the metropolitan region rather than being drawn from aggregate level statistics alone. Multilevel regression modeling is applied to take account of the interdependencies among these levels of aggregation. With regard to mode choice, the results indicate that the probability of driving an auto to work is lower in employment-rich metropolitan regions, and rises as the number of jobs per resident has grown strongly. Furthermore, women in most polycentric regions are less likely to commute as an auto driver. All else being equal, commute distances and times for auto drivers are longer in most polycentric regions than in monocentric urban areas. In addition, commute time as an auto driver rises with metropolitan size, whereas commute distance depends on employment density and the growth of the number of jobs per resident. The investigation shows that metropolitan structure, although significantly influencing commute patterns, explains only a small part of the variation of individuals’ commute behavior.

Notes:   Economic competitiveness now has less to do with new materials than with new ways of producing, utilizing, and combining diverse knowledges. It is branded as symptomatic of a “new” economy and is often juxtaposed against the “old” economy. As accelerating technological change has greatly increased the volume and quality of the information available to organizations, to firms, and to individual employees, it is asserted that the economy has become more “new” than “old.” But this is predicated on the assumption that there is a “new” economy and that it is somehow distinguishable from the “old.” This paper explores the basis for this dichotomy and whether it really adds anything to understanding contemporary economies and their ongoing development. It will be argued that it is more useful and constructive to examine the economy through a lens dominated by service industries that are now the key drivers of change (innovation, competition, employment) and development. The paper is concluded with a discussion of some items that could usefully be part of an agenda for further research by economic geographers on the evolving spatial and structural attributes of service work and organizations and their impact on cities or regions at different scales of analysis.

Notes: The method of selecting among job applicants using statistically based banding has been proposed over the last 10 years as a way to increase workforce diversity. The method continues to be reviewed by academics and considered by practitioners. Although the goal of increasing workforce diversity is important, statistical banding of scores remains controversial. We present a set of unique, statistically and theoretically based criticisms of a form of banding (top-score-referenced banding) that is widely used in hundreds of jobs in the public sector throughout the United States. We suggest that even within the premises of such banding, the wrong formula is used to estimate the standard error of measurement and standard error of the difference. One consequence is that too many individuals are labeled as essentially equal with respect to test scores. A related consequence is that test scores within a single band are statistically different and should therefore be treated as such for selection purposes. A more logically and statistically defensible procedure for responding to diversity concerns is to continue to attend to adverse impact issues at each step of the recruiting and test development process.

Notes: The gap between science and practice in personnel selection is an ongoing concern of human resource management. This paper takes Oliver's framework of organizations' strategic responses to institutional pressures as a basis for outlining the diverse economic and social demands that facilitate or inhibit the application of scientifically recommended selection procedures. Faced with a complex network of multiple requirements, practitioners make more diverse choices in response to any of these pressures than has previously been acknowledged in the scientific literature. Implications for the science-practitioner gap are discussed.

Notes: Many meta-analyses and hundreds of primary studies have been carried out on the criterion-oriented validity of personality measures for predicting job performance. The Five-Factor Model of personality has been used as a frame for analyzing the empirical evidence. However, the research in industrial, work and organizational psychology has not examined the relationship between the dysfunctional tendencies of personality and the personality disorders as described in DSM-IV (Axis II) Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders and job performance. The present paper examines the relationship between job performance and the dysfunctional personality styles included in a non-clinical personality inventory developed to assess personality tendencies related to the dysfunctional (normal) personality styles and the personality disorders in work settings. This inventory assesses 14 dysfunctional personality styles and was given to a sample of 85 applicants. The job performance was rated by the direct supervisor 8 months later, and three measures were obtained: task performance, contextual performance, and overall job performance. The results showed that the seven dysfunctional personality styles (suspicious, shy, sad, pessimistic, sufferer, eccentric, and risky) predicted the three measures of job performance. The egocentric personality style negatively predicted contextual performance. Finally, the submitted style predicted task performance. With the exception of the risky personality style, the rest of the styles mainly consisted of Neuroticism. Implications for the research and practice of personnel selection are discussed.

Notes: Safety jobs, meaning jobs where employees are responsible for the safety of customers, other employees and/or public in general are of special importance for our present society and deserve continued attention from I/O psychologists. The central question addressed in this study is whether the scores on safety suitability tests are comparable for immigrants and majority group members. Use was made of test data on first-generation immigrants (N=786) and majority group members (N=584) who applied for blue collar jobs at the Dutch Railways and at regional bus companies. The tests used measured selective attention, attentional speed, continuous attention, perceptual-motor ability and general mental ability. Immigrants' mean scores are systematically below the level of the mean scores of the majority group. The tests appear to have a strong dimensional comparability between the different groups. There is very little indication of test bias. The increasing number of immigrants and the increase of safety jobs pose challenges for selection psychologists. It is suggested that continued use of safety suitability tests is needed to keep the number of safety accidents at a minimum.

Notes: The primary purpose of this investigation was to test two key characteristics hypothesized to influence the validity of situational (SI) and behavior description (BDI) structured interviews. A meta-analysis of 54 studies with a total sample size of 5536 suggested that job complexity influences the validity of SIs, with decreased validity for high-complexity jobs, but does not influence the validity of BDIs. And, results indicated a main effect for study design across both SIs and BDIs, with predictive studies having 0.10 lower validity on average than concurrent studies. Directions for future research are discussed.

Notes: The psychometric qualities of the intercultural readiness check (IRC) were evaluated against an existing instrument for multicultural effectiveness: the Multicultural Personality Questionnaire (MPQ). The IRC has scales for intercultural sensitivity, intercultural communication, intercultural relationship building, conflict management, leadership and tolerance of ambiguity. A sample of in majority employees who were trained for an international position (N=137) participated in the study. The IRC scales were moderately to sufficiently reliable. Correlations with the MPQ scales were in the expected direction. Both instruments were equally strongly related to international inspiration, with open-mindedness (MPQ) and intercultural sensitivity (IRC) as most important predictors. The IRC scales explained more variance in international experience.

Notes: The application/selection process can be thought of as a set of Bayesian opinion revision tasks, in which applicants obtain new information about the organization at each stage of the process and must integrate this information with their prior perceptions of the organization and the jobs. The Bayesian perspective provides useful insights for understanding serial decisions of this type. It suggests that real-world decision-makers are too sensitive to the valence and insufficiently sensitive to the diagnosticity of the information they obtain from interviewers, assessors, etc., and that the effects of information obtained early in the process depends on both the applicant's state of perceived uncertainty and on the relationship between the applicant's preconceptions and this early information.

Notes: In psychology, general beliefs are considered to be the stepping-stones of future behavior and attitudes (Rokeach, 1973; Olson, Roese, & Zanna, 1996). The goal of this paper is to explore applicants' general beliefs about the selection treatment, namely the way they want and expect to be treated during selection. After the concept of selection treatment beliefs is introduced and both its theoretical and practical relevance is highlighted, the development of the Social Process Questionnaire on Selection (SPQS) is reported, which measures selection treatment beliefs. Factor analyses (660 students and 643 applicants) revealed six treatment factors. Applicants valued and expected transparency, objectivity, feedback, job information, participation, and a humane treatment. Apparently, applicants valued the six factors more than they expected them to be realized. The scientific and practical relevance of the findings are discussed.

Notes: Reactions to the use of the ACT/SAT, biodata, and situational judgment measures in college admissions decisions were collected from 644 college freshmen. Evaluation of a series of models of fairness perceptions indicated that self-serving bias and organizational justice explanations may both be responsible for these reactions. Examination of respondents' beliefs about their performance compared with other students' performance also elicited responses that may be attributable to concerns about distributive justice. A variety of perceptual processes may explain fairness perceptions, but from a practical perspective, it may be easiest to manipulate examinees' perceptions of the relevance, and indirectly, the perceived fairness of the selection procedures used to make major selection or admissions decisions.

Notes: This article employs a comparative framework in the analysis of the professional characteristics of social work in Israel. Using the attributes and the power approaches to professions, Israeli social work is analysed according to eight variables: a protected ‘trademark’, monopoly over social care and delivery of services within state welfare systems, occupational autonomy, length of training and control over training, internal differentiation by levels of expertise and competence, professional organisation, a sanction-backed code of ethics, and material and symbolic rewards. The analysis reveals that Israeli social work has undergone an extensive professionalisation process and that it has characteristics that are not common in other countries. Initial explanations for this process are offered and discussed.

Notes: This study addresses the relationship between street youth shelters and formal child welfare systems in Toronto, Canada. Two case examples, Covenant House (CH) and Youth Without Shelter (YWS), are examined through archival material, participant observations and structured interviews with 21 front-line and managerial shelter workers. The findings suggest that both shelters have formed reciprocal and unequal partnerships with formal child-welfare organisations. The consequences of such an arrangement are threefold: (1) CH and YWS no longer possess an internal environment to support traditional street youths; (2) both shelters have strayed from their original intentions; and (3) many shelter workers express frustration within this dynamic. Several recommendations are put forward to support the survival of youth shelters: advocating increased government daily rates; seeking a balance between building a legitimate public image and an alternative street youth reputation; making every effort to house hard-core street youths; and building innovative internal programmes to act as referral points.

Notes: Corporate governance is a concept that attracted the attention of jurists and economists in the US in the 1970s and 1980s. The concept then became widespread on the European continent in the 1990s. More recently, corporate governance elements have turned up in other fields as well. When applied to social institutions, this model is referred to as ‘social governance’. The (corporate) governance concept can be valuable in the social area. The debate on corporate governance is much more fundamental than the debate on the relationship between shareholders and management or between minority and majority shareholders. The essence of corporate governance can be found in the pursuit of a situation of ‘checks and balances’, which gives the stakeholders the possibility to complement and control each other. This article analyses the different stakeholders in the social area, their legitimisation as stakeholders and the practicability of a social stakeholder model.

Notes: Auditory hallucination, or hearing voices, is generally associated with psychopathology. In psychiatry it is inter-preted as a symptom of an illness, with no connection to the individual's life history. Voice hallucinations in childhood occur in a variety of contexts and have variable long-term outcomes. Little is known about the course of the experience. In this study, 80 children and youngsters hearing voices were interviewed on four occasions over a period of three years about the content of the voices and their overall experience of voices, focusing on the determinants for a promising outcome in the pathways through care. The results indicate that the need for care in the context of the experience of voices is associated not only with high levels of problem behaviour and associated negative symptoms of psychosis, but also, independently, with an appraisal of the voices in terms of anxiety, depression, dissociation and frequency of occurrence. In 60 per cent of the participants the voices disappeared during the three-year research period. The relationship between the disappearance of voices and the course of mental health treatment is, however, ambiguous.

Notes: Women spend more time doing household work than men, and men spend more time working at paying jobs outside the home than women. But studies also show that there are major differences between countries regarding the degree to which women and men involve themselves in different kinds of labour activity. The main aim of the article is to analyse the significance of gender ideology when studying differences between countries regarding the involvement of women and men in paid and unpaid work. The analysis is based on national random samples from ten OECD countries that were collected within the framework of ISSP 1994. The conclusions are: (a) gender ideology has an impact in all the studied countries on the degree to which women and men involve and engage themselves in labour and (b) gender ideology partially explains the differences between countries regarding women's and men's involvement in paid and unpaid work.

Notes: This article reports on a study of the impact of unemployment duration on the probability of becoming a social assistance recipient and on the time spent on social assistance. The data are taken from a local Finnish labour market consisting of the cohort of unemployed people at a given date (n = 2,274). The data are linked to information about the number of months recipients received social assistance during the subsequent year. Count data regression models of the hurdle type are estimated. The results of the analysis suggest that the impact of unemployment duration on the probability of becoming a social assistance recipient is explained to a large extent by changes in the distribution of types of unemployment benefits between people with different lengths of time spent in unemployment. Unemployment assistance recipients are more likely to become social assistance recipients and to spend longer periods on social assistance than are recipients of unemployment insurance because the unemployment benefits for the latter are higher. Among social assistance recipients, time spent on the transfer increases with unemployment duration only for those who are in frequent need of assistance.

Notes: Previous studies have shown that the participation of first-generation immigrants in the Swedish income security system deviates from that of the native population. However, so far there has been no research that has focused on this issue where second-generation immigrants are concerned. This study shows that the rates of participation in different parts of the income security system vary considerably between different groups of second-generation immigrants. Second-generation immigrants whose parents come from Western Europe have low participa-tion rates in all the studied parts of the income security system. Their participation rates are even lower than for natives with both parents born in Sweden. Second-generation immigrants with parents from southern Europe and from outside Europe, on the other hand, have very high participation rates in especi-ally social assistance. The differences between the groups are of course to a great extent explained by differences in their labour market situation. According to the findings of the study, there are reasons to be concerned about the future labour market integration of second-generation immigrants with parents of non-European origin.

Notes: This study examined how Hong Kong newspapers constructed charity and what the implications were for Hong Kong's residual welfare state. The Oriental Daily (OD) and the Apple Daily (AD), the two most popular newspapers, with over 50 per cent of Hong Kong's newspaper market, were selected as the objects of study. A total of 155 cases were collected from the social service columns of these two newspapers between 1 August and 31 October 2000. The study found that poor physical health and ‘incomplete family patterns’ were the criteria used to verify the recipients’ dependency, which also formed the basis for charitable welfare entitlements. Moreover, an extremely unequal social status was produced between donors and recipients. The former were accorded high social recognition for their charitable contributions whereas the latter were presented as being desperate, weak and helpless people. In addition, four categories of needs were identified; tradition-oriented needs, emergency assistance, basic material assistance and basic health needs. The study concluded that Hong Kong newspaper charity has helped to consolidate the basis for a residual welfare state. It also revealed that charity was mainly able to deal only with short-term and specific needs at a particular point in time. More importantly, it was found that a code of practice is needed for journalists involved in charitable activities in order to safeguard the dignity of recipients.

Notes: People's attitudes towards four aspects of labour-market flexibility corresponding to demands in the unemployment insurance regulations in Sweden were examined. Hypotheses of resistance versus adaptation to these demands were tested. The study showed that unemployed individuals took a relatively more negative stand towards demands on financial flexibility and spatial flexibility. Individuals in low-skilled socio-economic positions were relatively more negative towards demands on financial flexibility, flexibility on time and spatial flexibility, but had the opposite attitude towards functional flexibility. The youngest people in the sample were very similar to the middle-aged in their attitudes, but were more positive towards spatial flexibility. The oldest in the sample were the most negative towards all flexibility aspects. Women took a more negative stand towards flexibility in time and spatial flexibility. Family situation constrained willingness to be flexible. Women with children and single parents were the most negative towards being available in time. Generally, having children diminished willingness for spatial flexibility, but increased it for functional flexibility.

Notes: The article reports on a fourth study on the political participation of social workers based on a methodology developed by Gray and Collett van Rooyen (2000). Thus far studies have been conducted in South Africa, Australia and New Zealand. The present study examined the political activities of social workers in Hong Kong. It begins with a review of the politicisation of Hong Kong's social workers, tracing developments from the 1960s onwards. It then examines the literature on political participation in social work, particularly various typologies of political activity, in order to add to theory relating to this important aspect of social-work practice. Thereafter, it outlines the conceptual framework and methodology used in the study, the results of which provide the basis for the discussion of the political activities of social workers in Hong Kong. It ends with an in-depth discussion of the implications of the findings for the political role of social workers in Hong Kong's changing political context.

Notes: This article looks at social protection in the Arab world. Giving the example of Egypt, it asks why poverty is so widespread and why – despite the country's numerous social protection systems – social risks are a major contributing factor to it. It concludes that reforms are due. The existing systems are well funded but inefficient and more to the benefit of the better-off than the poor. A reform approach is proposed which builds on both conventional and more innovative strategies: campaigns should be launched to raise public awareness of social risks; social assistance spending should be increased; and the operating public pension schemes should be reformed. At the same time, new avenues have to be opened to meet the specific needs of informal sector workers who have extreme difficulty in being covered by social insurance or social assistance. To this purpose, micro-insurance is a promising approach for the Arab-world region.

Notes: Traditional theories of welfare state development divide into two camps: societal accounts and institutional accounts. The aim of the present article is to amend and enrich the institutional approach to US social policy by reconsidering key aspects of the genesis of the American welfare state: 1) showing that concepts such as ‘policy feedback’ and ‘path dependence’ need to be extended to encompass the effect of private social policies; and 2) taking policy paradigms and agenda setting more seriously than is the norm in institutional scholarship. The empirical analysis is divided into two parts. The first part explores the activities of the American Association for Labor Legislation (AALL) in the decade beginning in 1910 and the genesis of Social Security in the 1930s, while the second part examines the effect of the private benefit developments on policy choices between 1935 and 1965.

Notes: The aim of this study was to find out whether elected politicians’ attitudes influence policy-making processes in terms of social and health-care resource allocation. A preliminary hypothesis was developed on the basis of previous empirical findings on the attitudes of politicians. If health-care costs decreased during the period 1993–1999, then secondary care costs should have increased and vice versa; if the total amount of resources increased, then secondary care must have been allocated fewer resources. However, the results of this study showed that the actual resource-allocation processes did not reflect the attitudes of local politicians. Expenditure on secondary health care increased during this period, while primary health-care services were allocated fewer resources. Analysing the actual decision-making processes rather than investigating attitudes to priority setting may prove more useful in gaining a better understanding of priority-setting processes and the mechanisms used in different contexts.

Notes: Most HIV-infected parents in Stockholm are of African origin. Many of them have several children, but their social network is often limited. This article looks at the networks of these families in relation to different aspects of HIV in order to improve the support strategies. The theoretical basis of the study rests on network and ecological systems theory. The social networks of the families in the study were found to be generally of similar size in Sweden and in the home country. However, of 47 HIV-infected parents only 21 (45%) had disclosed their HIV status to friends and relatives in Sweden. The lack of a social network was especially prominent among single women. Contact with counsellors at the HIV clinic and the social welfare office increased the probability of disclosure about HIV infection. The lack of knowledge about HIV transmission and about whom to inform about the infection stresses the importance of improved counselling. The support strategies aimed at broadening the patient's network and breaking their isolation need to be continued and strengthened.

Notes: The official figures on provision of home help in Denmark are compromised in that they include figures for help delivered to people living in assisted-living dwellings, facilities that were formerly considered nursing homes. Furthermore, many municipalities have integrated home help and nursing-home care and report this as home help. This article examines the effect of these administrative arrangements on the provision of home help and the distribution of home help in terms of hours per week. There has been a polarisation in size of care packages: a smaller group of recipients composed largely of people residing in assisted-living dwellings receive larger care packages, whereas the care packages to people living in their own dwellings have decreased in size. However, a sleight of hand of definitions regarding the concept of home has made the official figures on provision of home help look even more generous than they are.

Notes: Sebaceous gland development and function is regulated by an expanding array of molecules including transcription factors, hormones, retinoids, growth factors, cytokines and nuclear hormone receptors. We have reviewed the literature to present the current understanding of sebaceous gland development and physiology, with particular emphasis on the control of the sebaceous gland and its implications for acne management. Interestingly, retinoids, cytokines and nuclear hormone receptors appear to be promising inhibitors of sebum synthesis, thus offering new approaches to acne management.

Notes: In this study, the effect of the antidandruff climbazole on the rheology of hair shampoo containing Dead Sea (DS) salt was investigated. The presence of either DS salt or the climbazole led to increase in the shampoo viscosity. An optimum concentration was found where the viscosity of shampoo was maximum. In the absence of DS salt, the viscosity of hair shampoo increased with increasing the climbazole concentration to reach a maximum value at 1.0 wt%. Further addition of climbazole decreased the viscosity of shampoo. Adjusting the pH of the shampoo at 5.5 and 5.0 shifted the optimum climbazole concentration (corresponds to maximum viscosity) to 0.8 wt% and led to increase in the viscosity of shampoo. On the other hand, the addition of climbazole to the shampoo containing DS salt resulted in a decrease in shampoo viscosity. This decrease of shampoo viscosity became more pronounced with increasing the climbazole and/or DS salt concentrations. By controlling the pH of shampoo, an optimum formula of shampoo comprising both climbazole and DS salt and having maximum viscosity was obtained.

Notes: OLIGOMARINE® is a complex of minerals obtained from seawater. In a cell culture system, OLIGOMARINE® stimulated not only the cell activation but also the collagen synthesis of fibroblasts. In addition, OLIGOMARINE® might have accelerated the keratinization as the expression of suprabasal markers, such as involucrin and transglutaminase, were promoted in cultured normal human keratinocytes. Furthermore, the water-holding properties and permeability barrier function of the stratum corneum were enhanced by using lotion containing OLIGOMARINE®. These results suggested that OLIGOMARINE® would be useful as a humectant for the prevention or improvement of dry skin.

Notes: Ginsenosides, the major active ingredient of ginseng, show a variety of biomedical efficacies such as anti-aging, anti-oxidation and anti-inflammatory activities. To understand the effects of 20-O-β-D-glucopyranosyl-20 (S)-protopanaxadiol (compound K), one of the major metabolites of ginsenosides on the skin, we assessed the expression level of approximately 100 transcripts in compound K-treated HaCaT cells using cDNA microarray analysis. Compound K treatment induced differential expression of 40 genes, which have been reported to be involved in the organization of the structure of the extracellular matrix as well as defense responses in human skin cells. One of the most interesting findings is a two-fold increase in hyaluronan synthase2 (HAS2) gene expression by compound K. We found that change in expression of HAS2 gene represents a specific response of HaCaT cells to compound K because hyaluronan synthase 1,3 was not changed by treatment with compound K. We also demonstrated that the compound K effectively induced hyaluronan synthesis in human skin cells and hairless mouse skin. A human clinical study indicated that topical application of compound K containing oil-in-water emulsion showed improvement of xerosis, wrinkle and fine lines in the aged skin. We concluded that compound K has anti-aging effects by the induction of HAS2 gene expression and following hyaluronan synthase.